Digital.Complex: electric motor scooters - Digital.Complex

Jump to content

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

electric motor scooters :3 Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 09 July 2009 - 01:30 PM

Well I can't remember exactly how it started, but we now have a project to transform our Razor scooters into electric motor powered versions. I know for sure that skidz and katsu are in, not sure if anyone else is interested or have any suggestions. This will function pretty much as a link dump until we get the hardware in and decide on the drivetrain.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...93%3A1|294%3A50
Ebay auction, $27 for five

http://cgi.ebay.com/...93%3A1|294%3A50
$11 for one, roughly $9 per after that

http://cgi.ebay.com/...93%3A1|294%3A50
$8 for one, roughly $6 per after that

These are all the same Mabuchi 750 size (I think) motor, the only thing bigger we can get from RC is the rediculous Traxxas 775 Titan beast.
0

#2 User is offline   djSL 

  • YE~yE~YEAAA~~~
  • PipPipPipPip
  • Group: Moderator
  • Posts: 152
  • Joined: 22-October 05

Posted 13 July 2009 - 01:08 PM

just buy one lol. they are made :P
0

#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 13 July 2009 - 08:34 PM

but that defeats the purpose of having a project :( anyway, the motors we bought was the auction for the five, and they're being shipped to teh Wad's house I believe.
0

#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 20 July 2009 - 05:06 PM

update on the project: we have one working PWM speed controller, and one being built/repaired...I hooked up something backwards on the second SC and now I have a TO-220 mosfet shaped burn on my left index finger. :\

Waiting for RC Heaven to be open (Wednesday) so we can see the selection of spur gears they carry. Then all there is to do is design the assembly in CAD and then construction...
0

#5 User is offline   Enoesiw 

  • Advanced Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • Group: Administrators
  • Posts: 103
  • Joined: 19-July 07

Posted 20 July 2009 - 07:02 PM

View PostShonen, on 20 July 2009 - 05:06 PM, said:

update on the project: we have one working PWM speed controller, and one being built/repaired...I hooked up something backwards on the second SC and now I have a TO-220 mosfet shaped burn on my left index finger. :\

Waiting for RC Heaven to be open (Wednesday) so we can see the selection of spur gears they carry. Then all there is to do is design the assembly in CAD and then construction...


What's the charge time/battery life estimated to be?
0

#6 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 21 July 2009 - 12:26 PM

that's totally dependant on the motor(s) we use, the type of throttle used and the batteries...I'm guessing anywhere from five minutes to twenty minutes as a ballpark figure.

Although that said, the Mabuchi motors seem to run a lot better on 18v (they're rated at 25v max) so maybe we'll use the drill batteries Dalas gave me on those.
0

#7 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 27 July 2009 - 03:57 AM

okay, update on the project. I did multiple calculations tonight and discvered that even with all five motors driving the 72T spur I bought (and using a 12T pinion) will give roughly 110N of force from a standstill. This equates to almost 3mph/s initial acceleration. Combine this with the projected top speed of 12mph, and it's quite slow... will probably be interesting to ride on though. I think it's a good step in the world of motorizing our transportation. This way, I can use a simple speed controller. I'll use the two 18V drill batteries instead, as these motors are rated for 25V (Aaron Cake's motors are automotive, ie. 12V). We'll see how this goes, 36V into a motor will be interesting indeed.

However, skidz has a very interesting idea for the near future...a go-kart. This will need a serious motor however, but I do have some idea on how it's gonna go down. This seller has a variety of motor sizes for sale, although the higher hp ones are very quite expensive. I was looking at the 1/2 hp one for the go-kart (or other scooters?), since it seems to be well within our price range. It does however mean we have to go with a chain drive. For the pedals, I was thinking to just use ones off a game controller...they're designed to drive potentiometers (ie. drive the ESC) and probably can be mounted easily. I know for a fact that the Logitech G25 pedals are epic (not just cause it has a clutch, but each pedal has a piston based feedback system), but then again so is the price.

Another thing is battery packs...the most cost-effective, capacity/drain-size battery seems to be the SubC found in RC. They normally run from 2000 (NiCd) to 5000 (high end NiMH), and can dump around 30A. I found an awesome auction here, 40 SubC 1.2V 2200mAH NiCd batteries for $45. A steal considering that they normally run over $2 a cell (up to $12 a cell for high performance NiMH) retail. If anyone else is interested in this project, they could chip in cause we will need a lot of batteries. If you think that it's expensive to run RC batteries, consider that lead-acid batteries (the de facto standard in motorized transport) cost over $40 each, and for 48V you need at least two. If we hooked up all those NiCds in series, we would have a 48V 2.2Ah battery that can drain at 10C or higher, which makes it roughly the equivalent of a 8Ah lead acid battery....that is far more robust, possibly lighter and able to be charged much faster.

Edit: found out something awesome.

http://forums.radioc...187&postcount=6

What this means is that I only have to use a single PWM driver to control all the motors. All the mosfets can have their tabs connected, which makes them easy to heatsink.

Also, I drew up a rough scale diagram in Autocad (touched up by >9000 hours in mspaint) of the five-motor setup I'm planning on doing with the first scooter. All five of them fit, just, so I'm able to start making a mouning plate (sheet metal) for the setup.

edit again: here's the nicd cells with tabs on them
http://cgi.ebay.com/...93%3A1|294%3A50

Attached File(s)


0

#8 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 05 October 2009 - 04:20 PM

okay update on this project... fiveseven apparently found a broken e-scooter recently, and has shit on my dreams and turned it into a project. I am determined to make this one better than this lol, despite me giving him advice on how to fix the speed controller :P

I think the 18v nicd 4/5subC cells dj gave me will work, probably in 18v parallel configuration (unless I decide to be stupid and need more power). I think I will experiment first with the simple microswitch-relay enable, having the motors either on or off, as this is most electrically efficient (although it will have some funny handling at low speed).

I am interested in making a go kart though, not something with stupid power but at least something that will be interesting to drive. however for that project we will definately need 48v, and I'm currently trying to figure out how best to achieve that. Trying to look for the power/capacity/cost balance, but so far I'm thinking either lead or lipo. 48v is:
- 40 nickel batteries (NiCd/NiMH) = 48v nominal
- 4 lead batteries = 48v nominal
- 12s lipo = 44.4v nominal (either 4x3s, 3x4s, 2x6s), 13s lipo = 48.1v nominal(3x3s+1x4s, 2x4s+1x5s)

trying to think of a circuit where I can step-up voltage for use with high-current low battery count system too (ie. lipo).

some ebay links for price checking
20x 10Ah D size NiMH: $115
8x 10Ah D size NiMH: ~$52
50x 2700mAh Sub-C size NiMH: ~$150
40x 1800mAh Sub-C size NiCd: ~$55
2x 4000mAh 5s lipo: ~$60
2x 2800mAh 6s lipo: $80
1x 3000mAh 6s lipo: $60
1x 2280mAh 3s lipo: ~$20
1x 3000mAh 3s lipo: ~$30
2x 2200mAh 3s lipo: ~$30
3x 2450mAh 3s lipo: ~$67
0

#9 User is offline   Five-sEvEn 

  • SP4MM0R D4 GR347
  • PipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 30
  • Joined: 22-January 06

Posted 05 October 2009 - 07:00 PM

speed controller didn't get fixed D: sounds like something shorts when i connect my lipo D: good thing it's not actually shorting else i would've shat my pants.

Also, even though the lipo is underrated for the application, i found out while playing with it for a few minutes continuously, my lipo started to balloon a tiny bit... worried the crap out of me.... i let it cool, and then rebalanced it, and all seems well... not even bloated anymore... anyone know what happened?

also, since the speed controller is trashed, and i wanted to have fun, i stuck a microswitch between the lipo and the motor and have been futzing around with it all day XP it's incredibly stupid and runs half as fast as it could and overheats my lipo, but it's fun lol. you should totally get something together to fuck around with so you have more incentive to finish the project!
0

#10 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 05 October 2009 - 10:57 PM

lipos balloon under high temperature or current draw. 1500mAh @ 20C yields max discharge current of 30A, however keep in mind that 24v*20A = 480W. 480W/11.1v = ~43A continuous, initial startup draw is probably around the 80A mark or so. Even at 40C (guessing that's the burst capacity) that's only 60A, which is why your lipo gets hot and ballooned. careful man, lipos aren't cheap (or safe, when they explode).

edit: hey look what I found. HPI makes a 2hp nitro engine that's $90 for ultimate ricer scooter status
http://www3.towerhob...P?&I=LWH107&P=1
0

#11 User is offline   Five-sEvEn 

  • SP4MM0R D4 GR347
  • PipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 30
  • Joined: 22-January 06

Posted 07 October 2009 - 02:01 PM

poop... so i have to limit current somehow so that it doesn't balloon? i dont want to have to chuck shit out of my window (and burn down frear X3)
also, i foudn out my shitty motor only sucks 24v at 11.5A so only 276w but the power output says only 200w D: that shouldn't be overtaxing my lipo right?

also, delicious nitro engine :3 sadly i'd need to gear down the shit outta it... any idea, how to do that safely? i need about 2-5k output plz, not 31k D:
0

#12 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 07 October 2009 - 02:41 PM

use a simple formula called gear reduction, lol. balance this equation: (motor max rpm/rpm wanted)=(spur gear teeth/pinion gear teeth)

if you put a nitro engine on a scooter I will buy a ticket to Honolulu and punch you in the balls for shitting on my dreams lol

ps. how'd you figure out the amp draw? 11.5A no-load is pretty beast, but 11.5A stall is pretty shitty (my Xmod motor has 20A stall lol)
0

#13 User is offline   Five-sEvEn 

  • SP4MM0R D4 GR347
  • PipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 30
  • Joined: 22-January 06

Posted 07 October 2009 - 02:52 PM

i know how to work out gear reduction tard, but handling 31k rpm with shit built from epoxy and funky pitched plastic ebay gears aint gonna cut it. is it normal for hobbyists to make their own gearboxes?

also, the specs were listed on the motor itself lol. thats why im sad it only has 200w power output D: i assume its no-load though. i could be completely wrong XP
0

#14 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 07 October 2009 - 04:55 PM

wtf I wouldn't trust ebay gears with anything over 100W lol. it's not making our own gearboxes per se, it's choosing pinion/spur combos that will work. It's easier with electric since pinions can pop on and off without having to take the motor out (usually...mostly with belt drive) but with nitro it's usually a case of you choose your pinion (clutch bell) tooth count beforehand. Both electric and nitro have different size spurs, the idea is to tune the car to accelerate fast enough and top out high enough to match the characteristics of the track...with specific rpm tuning though, all you need is math.

Tower Hobbies links:
Pinions:
- xxP is the pitch, where xx = 0.8/1.0 (metric, number of teeth per mm on the circumference) or 32/48/64 (imperial, tooth count per inch on circumference). Match the pitch to the spur or else it won't mate properly. Be wary of Tamiya though since they have a proprietary pitch.
- xxT is the tooth count, which obviously is most important in calculations.
- Shaft diameter, match this to the motor. For RC motors it's either 2mm (1:16 and smaller), 3.2mm/1/8" (standard 1:12 and 1:10) or 5mm (fadonkadonk 1:10, mostly for 1:8)
- If there's a hueg puka in the middle, that means it's threaded and meant for use on nitro engines. Dunno too much about standardization there.
Spurs:
- xxP is the pitch, match this to the pitch of the pinion
- xxT is the tooth count, use this in calculations
- Keep an eye on the mounting style, electric type spurs generally have two (or a shitload) of mounting holes near the middle. Nitro types have a bearing in the middle as they're used with slipper clutches.

if the power output is stamped on the motor then it's the recommended max...anything higher and you severely shorten the life of the motor (brushes/commutator not designed for higher voltages/currents).

hope this helps a bit. buy a better lipo, lol.

edit: idea for the go-kart... 4x these and one of these :3

6s4p = 22.2v, 16000mAh @ 10C continuous (160A, 3.5kW) and 15C burst (240A, 5.3kW). Motor is rated 3.4kW (4hp, 88% efficiency) continuous and it says 8hp peak (5.9kW) so all we need is a ramp-up soft start system and we're set :3 Roughly $300 for the batteries and motor, all we'd need is the frame (cheap from home depot iron department), some gears, wheels and a steering system.
0

#15 User is offline   Five-sEvEn 

  • SP4MM0R D4 GR347
  • PipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 30
  • Joined: 22-January 06

Posted 08 October 2009 - 03:21 AM

o0o informative post!

you still haven't told me how to attach the damn gears together? does this mean you intend to build a rudimentary gearing system? out of what for the support?

poo on the recommended max :( maybe i should tear the motor down and rebuild it too? :3 anyone know if they have standard neodymium motor magnets? :3

and of course im going to buy a better lipo! it's my airsoft/robotics lipo, not meant to ride shit on LOL i'd have like 4 min battery life with my lipo if it doesn't explode first. im actually going to toss a micro inside my speed controller since its easy and see if i cant manage a lipo and the SLA cells (provided they're revivable). my skooter will haz BOOST! lolololololol


btw that is a monster hueg motor... wth lol. if you build a go kart around that thing I will fly up there and punch you in the balls for building the crazy ass thing :3
0

#16 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 08 October 2009 - 08:56 AM

there's a lot of ball punching threats lol...

spurs mount either to the driveshaft (shaft-drive) or the center pulley system (belt drive). For our purposes, you'd have to fabricate some sort of mount. The pinion will always attach to the motor output shaft...and in our case, you'd have to fabricate a motor mount (usually a plate with holes for screws).
0

#17 User is offline   Five-sEvEn 

  • SP4MM0R D4 GR347
  • PipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 30
  • Joined: 22-January 06

Posted 08 October 2009 - 09:31 AM

really? you'd mount the spur directly to the drive shaft?

also, there's no belt thingeys on the links you gave me D: just gears

pooo on the fabricate motor mount bit though D: sounds difficult to get right. if you say it can get done though~...
0

#18 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 08 October 2009 - 01:16 PM

it's not that hard, just get a plate of aluminum or steel from home depot/city mill.

http://www3.towerhob...wti0093p?&C=CLF
^ belts, usually they're manufacturer-specific. If you're going the belt drive route keep in mind that you need pulleys, the pulleys attach to the spurs along the axis of rotation.

http://www3.towerhob...wti0093p?&C=CLE
^ pulleys, keep in mind that you need a pulley shaft since it's very hard drilling a hole for the locking pin in a metal shaft...and don't forget about bearings.

http://www3.towerhob...wti0093p?&C=CMK
^ bearings

I'd say go with direct drive (motor -> pinion -> spur -> wheel) so there's no funny business with a driveshaft or stuff like that. Unless you wanna be epic and make an FR scooter, but that's just kind of stupid...


Edit: for the go kart I'm seriously considering gas power....that will cost us more for an engine but I don't have to have a stupid amount of batteries, and on top of that it'll guarantee us a runtime of over 15 minutes.
0

#19 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 15 December 2009 - 02:45 PM

bump, e-kart project cancelled. the 4hp motor will go into a razor scooter, I just have to buy a rear tire for it...and gears. I'm thinking chain drive, so sprockets will be needed too.

btw, the Mamba Monster ESC has a rediculous 200A continuous/phase brushless, which means 600A continuous for brushed mode. Some guys even tried putting it in an electric pocket bike, and they said it didn't even get warm. so you can guess what I'm thinking...
0

#20 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 20 December 2009 - 06:58 PM

so I found out something awesome today.

http://www.amainhobb...el-Cell-Battery

7.2Ah gel-cell AGM lead battery for $30. AGM batteries do not have maximum discharge rates, and if we buy two of them and stick em in parallel then the scooter will be able to run at 100% throttle for at least twelve minutes....in series, we can get a full 4hp for three minutes. I'd rather stick with the parallel however, as Skidz has a 12v voltmeter we could use for the project. The speed controller can be made by myself, all I have to do is (heavily) modify the one I already built.

All we need to do now is find a rear tire...I'm thinking something from the gardening section around 6"...all we need to do is find some sprockets and we're set
0

#21 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 19 January 2010 - 04:03 PM

^ update on that, I found a better value/capacity AGM battery. I'll buy it once we have everything else running, as lead acid batteries don't like to be stored.

http://www.sentex.ca...irc/pwm555.html
^ schematic for reference, this is what I'm gonna build for the speed controller. already got all the parts.

still gotta search for a rear tire and buy sprockets though.
0

#22 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 04 February 2011 - 11:31 PM

Okay, update on this project a year later...I have, believe it or not, ran out of RC's to spend money on so now I can buy stuff for the scooter project. first off, this will be based off my Razor...and 'sort of' converted to a Razor E150. As a baseline, here's the main important aspects of the E150:

Differential Ratio: 1
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 55
Pinion Tooth Count: 9
Total Voltage: 24
Motor KV: 95.833333333333333333333333333333
Tire Diameter (inches): 7.87
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 6.5
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 6.11 : 1
Total Ratio: 6.11111 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 24.72 inches (628 mm)
Rollout: 4.05:1
Total Motor Speed: 2300 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 8.81 mph (14.15 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 95.83
KT constant: 14.11 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.48 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 2.92 ft-lbs
Final Power: 156 watts (0.2 HP)


I am going to be using the wheel assembly off the Razor E150, 200mm diameter (~7.874") with a 55t #25 sprocket attached. It also has the brake drum, although I'm not sure if it comes with the brake band so it's unsure if I will be using it. To match up with the #25 sprocket, I ordered a 13t 8mm bore sprocket, with an 8mm->5mm bore reducer. I also ordered a 16t 1.0M 6mm bore pinion. The reduction will go as follows:

motor, 16t pinion -> 36-40t spur (Revo spec slipper), 13t sprocket -> 55t sprocket, tire

1.0M gear reduction: 2.25-2.5
#25 chain reduction: ~4.23

Differential Ratio: 1
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 2.5
Spur Tooth Count: 55
Pinion Tooth Count: 13
Total Voltage: 14.80
Motor KV: 880
Tire Diameter (inches): 7.87
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 90
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 4.23 : 1
Total Ratio: 10.57692 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 24.72 inches (628 mm)
Rollout: 2.34:1
Total Motor Speed: 13024 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 28.83 mph (46.31 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 880
KT constant: 1.54 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.72 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 7.62 ft-lbs
Final Power: 1332 watts (1.8 HP)

and this is the calculations for the Turnigy T600 powered scooter.

Razor motor dimensions: 66.67mm diameter, 98.43mm long
Turnigy T600 motor dimensions: 49mm diameter, 57mm can length
not quite the same size, but the T600 is an outrunner (vs sealed brushed) and has forced cooling. I'm not so certain about the torque characteristics, but it's calculated to be over twice that of the Razor motor it's replacing, another calculator by BrianG said that I only need 70A to do 0-30mph in ten seconds.

Orders from different places:
- USA Bearings and Belts: 13t #25 8mm bore sprocket, 2x #25 chain master links
- Ready Heli: RevCo 16t 1.0M 6mm bore pinion
- Monster Scooter Parts: 3' #25 chain, Razor E150 rear wheel assembly
- Toadz Toyz: Revo slipper assembly
- RC Monster: 8mm-5mm bore reducer, battery straps

I already have a spare Revo transmission output shaft and bearings for it, so once everything comes in I can get started.
0

#23 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 08 February 2011 - 01:33 PM

Posted Image
removing the other EDF off EDF-Revo, need to use the motor for this project

Posted Image
half an hour of straining finally got the impeller collet off the shaft, so I can start doing the conversion.

also, got stuff in the mail. just waiting for the 6mm pinion and the E150 rear wheel. gonna start fabbing up some stuff this week.
0

#24 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 08 February 2011 - 11:53 PM

Posted Image
some parts came in

Posted Image
these are the parts going straight to the scooter. bore reducer so the sprocket will fit on the 5mm shaft.

edit: more things came in.

Posted Image
got the chain in from Monster Scooter. still waiting on the rear tire.

Posted Image
pinion came in from ReadyHeli, they also gave me two mints. lol

Posted Image
very tight fit...since both this and the EDF collet were tight, I think it's the motor shaft being a bit large.
0

#25 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 11 February 2011 - 11:29 AM

ok, false alarm. the collet was just tight due to the loctite residue on it. Pinion goes on and off smoothly now, still a bit snug but nothing like the EDF collet.

Anyway, more prototyping went on last night.

Posted Image
tearing down the ERBE slipper clutch

Posted Image
damage is not too bad, this is definitely reusable

Posted Image
putting on the better-made Hot Racing long aluminum slipper pads

Posted Image
holes were machined slightly large, used loctite to temporarily attach the pads to the spur assembly

Posted Image
installed back in the ERBE.

Posted Image
meanwhile...

Posted Image
bore reducer inside the sprocket, pin through the Revo transmission input shaft goes into the key in the sprocket

Posted Image
pinion mounted to the T600 motor

Posted Image
mount made out of the aluminum plate

Posted Image
motor holes drilled

Posted Image
the flat on the shaft doesn't go all the way down. the pinion set screw stops the pinion about 1mm from the aluminum plate. perfect

Posted Image
using Xmod gen 1 springs to space

Posted Image
gonna be reusing some of EDF-Revo's parts in this project so I don't have to buy more aluminum

Posted Image
what I'm thinking of...using the last 5x11x4 bearing on the input shaft, and one of the 8x16x4 from ERBE on the bore reducer itself.
0

#26 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 14 February 2011 - 03:57 PM

building more of the gear-chain reduction axle. Fortunately I was able to get it working using just the Revo 3.3 transmission input shaft.

Posted Image
before things started that night. soldered on connectors to the Phoenix ICE 100 first.

Posted Image
testing the ESC with my servo tester to make sure it works before I modify things...

Posted Image
taking apart the servo tester

Posted Image
looking at the top of the servo tester pcb

Posted Image
modified the servo tester, alas it doesn't work properly since the original potentiometer is 5k and my slide pots are 50k.

Posted Image
taking apart my other servo tester

Posted Image
this one has an aluminum case, and because it only does 1-2ms (not 760us that certain servos need) the board is much smaller.

Posted Image
may or may not cut out these areas on the motor mount for extra cooling ability

Posted Image
ditched the springs and went with solid state spacers for the input shaft. filed down this 5x11x4 TT-01 bushing to around 3.6mm, which just let me slide the pin for the sprocket through the shaft while aligning properly with the set screw.

Posted Image
mockup of the shaft mount

Posted Image
rudimentary countersinking by drilling almost all the way through with a bigger bit

Posted Image
the buttonhead screws sit a lot lower now, and don't contact the slipper hub.

Posted Image
mockup of the whole system.

Posted Image
gear mesh is adjustable by the tolerance of the screw holes, lol.

Posted Image
moved the bearing farther away from the sprocket so the chain should not hit anything.

I will update once I get new bolts, hopefully the rear tire will come in soon so this project can get off the ground.
0

#27 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 08 March 2011 - 11:39 AM

okay, well the shipment from partsforscooters.com came in so I spent last night unboxing and inspecting.

Posted Image
this would explain why even though the rear wheel costed less, shipping was higher

Posted Image
ultimately everything comes from changland, it seems

Posted Image
the rear wheel assembly in the box

Posted Image
front wheel comes as what I think is a two-piece plastic hub

Posted Image
10mm shaft included

Posted Image
the box of the rear wheel assembly

Posted Image
nice stamped steel sprocket

Posted Image
brake assembly

Posted Image
the brake system is a simple band brake

Posted Image
the pad has a metal band around the back for rigidity. there are also set screws on the perimeter to set the lever travel.

Posted Image
taking off the front wheel

Posted Image
now we can begin!

I will work on it this coming weekend, when I have time. (:
0

#28 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 21 March 2011 - 10:54 AM

did some work on the scooter on rainy Saturday.

Posted Image
unscrewed the handlebars

Posted Image
bearings not in bad shape for being over ten years old

Posted Image
cleaned off the front fork

Posted Image
reference photo for the sprocket side spacer

Posted Image
reference photo for the brake side spacer

Posted Image
loctited the sprocket screws on. I prefer this to the extreme torque they used to keep them in place...I actually stripped one of the Philips heads, thankfully the screws were also hex-headed (standard M5).

Posted Image
mounting the slipper clutch assembly

Posted Image
zoom!

Posted Image
went out and bought some steel for the front forks, this took forever to cut.

Posted Image
10mm shaft vs. 3/8" drill bit...I had to open the hole by 0.02". I did a combination of grinding by drill bit and dremeling.

Posted Image
finally on!

Posted Image
stripped one of the M4 bolts here...used an old RC trick of dremeling a slot, and using a flathead screwdriver to remove it.

Posted Image
and the mockup of the almost-finished front fork, all it needs are the 6 screws I'm gonna use to attach it. I will work on it more next weekend.
0

#29 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 22 March 2011 - 11:42 AM

ended up having some free time last night, finished up the front fork and am now thinking of how to attach the rear wheel.

Posted Image
view of the front forks

Posted Image
three holes drilled, reusing the screws I used to hold on the fans of EDF-Revo

Posted Image
drilling the thick fork bars to mate with the aluminum

Posted Image
bolted up

Posted Image
zoom! I actually reattached the rear wheel and took it out for a spin. It works brilliantly, and the screws should hold up to the weight because assuming the scooter will weigh 250lbs with rider (generous considering it will have to weigh 45lbs without me on it) the 3/16" screws only need to support 20lbs each, and the M5 screws will be at 30lbs each.

Posted Image
alignment's not bad for doing all measurements by eye, more or less

Posted Image
at an angle. maybe I'll paint the steel later, I imagine in a couple of days it will be a nice rust-colored shade.
0

#30 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,521
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 23 May 2011 - 05:05 PM

Posted Image
taking off the front part so I can more easily work on the scooter itself

Posted Image
new tungsten-carbide bit, so hopefully I won't break this one ($10)

Posted Image
installed in the drill press

Posted Image
results! not bad for hand grinding

Posted Image
the difference some grinding makes

Posted Image
using the stock screw location (and screw, actually)

Posted Image
double aluminum setup

Posted Image
pilot hole drilled in the steel

Posted Image
the lubricant/cooling pool of water

Posted Image
1/4" holes drilled after a lot of noise and swearing

Posted Image
left side enlarged slightly so the wheel bolt can pass through

Posted Image
all the steel in the water after the process was done

Posted Image
now both steel pieces clear the wheel bolt

Posted Image
Razor sticker was starting to peel off, so I removed it.
0

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

1 User(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users