Digital.Complex: R/C General - Digital.Complex

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R/C General drifting, racing, touring

#31 User is offline   skidz24 

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 06:01 PM

what about the spur gears?
o and my motor haha. just gotta wait for it to be released?
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#32 User is offline   katsu 

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 08:30 PM

I really wanna try to make mine a RWD monster, but idk what I'd need to make it that. I know I need a better servo, that's for sure. After I do that, then I'll go for the counter steer mod.
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#33 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 07:15 PM

easiest way would be to remove the front dogbones. pop off your camber turnbuckle, and take out the dogbone. to take off the belt or diff you have to remove the entire bulkhead that's why. other than that, you need a rediculously fast servo, some springs for tuning (extreme understeer tuning) and different grip tires. wd40 might help, but it's been done before and shown to be impossible lol.

ps. if you want 1:10 RWD only, try check out a pan car kit lol.
Associated RC10R5
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#34 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 02:16 AM

okay, so I did the first two orders. Katsu/Dalas you guys owe me $30 each for the diffs. the rest of the stuff will be ordered later. if you guys want to help split shipping and for the body pins, then feel free...I also had to grab some more male Deans Ultra ESC connectors. The rest is for me. :P
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#35 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 02:49 PM

Okay....so the RC18-2 chassis has an interesting battery tray dimension. The 'flat' dimensions are 104x44mm (absolute largest), and close to the rear there's a small overhanging bit of the belt cover that's 19mm off the chassis. This overhang leaves 90mm of 'unlimited' vertical space.

So basically, my battery choices are as follows...
90x44x??mm (unlimited vertical)
104x44x19mm (standard battery)

So I decided on which batteries to get both for the E-Revo and the RC18-2. 3s 3600mAh 30C for the truck (essentially the 3s version of the batteries we got for Fancar), and 4s 1600mAh 20C for buggy. I can't find anything else with a 'fitting' enough shape for it, so I'm gonna have to make some compromises lol....unless I buy this and this and make a 5s 1600mAh 20C.
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#36 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 01 June 2010 - 01:22 PM

buh. out of money, so I'm focusing on the community for now lol. I threw together a small RC section for D.C, hopefully when I work on it more (clean it up so it looks good, mostly) I'll throw an official link on the homepage. for now, this will do.

http://digitalcomplex.org/rc/

ps. if you guys want to help me out, let me know the specs and equipment on you guys' cars lol.
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#37 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 09 June 2010 - 02:11 AM

alright, section updated. It's almost finished I think, I'm just gonna add a similar profile for each body shell lol.

ps. take pictures of your guys' stuff so I can use it on the site. I can't do it for everything lol.

pps. ordered more drift tires. sorry but I gotta ask for money for them cause even tho they're cheap I've bought almost 80 tires so far and gotten less than $10 compensation when they're $3/set.
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#38 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 12:19 AM

http://digitalcomple...c/new/index.php

updating the RC section, here's the temporary link to the new one while it's in development. about 70% done with it.
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#39 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 09:11 PM

http://digitalcomplex.org/rc/index.php

ok it's almost done. I moved it back to digitalcomplex/rc since the old section is now obsolete. All I have to really do is get pictures of all the bodies and do a photo gallery for stuff and it'll be 100%. (:

I just realized I need to do a couple more of the 88x31 images to make the tables fill out better. I also need inspiration for a banner to use.

Olopop, stop killing motors lol.

Oh btw, we need to take a group shot lol. We need a night where we have all the chassis and can do a lineup sort of shot (like an updated version of my signature).
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#40 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 03:58 PM

ok so we need a real team name lol. if we go with 'Zenbu Zenbu' then I will seppuku.

Also, I created a private RC subforum. This way we can share ideas that we may not necessarily want to share with everyone else :P
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#41 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 26 July 2010 - 01:47 AM

I made a huge Excel file (2007, sorry) with all the Turnigy and Zippy/Flightmax batteries on Hobby King. It's tabbed by cell count, and it contains the price, dimensions and discharge data for each one. I even threw in a column that calculates the cost per mAh so you can choose the most cost-effective battery if that's what you're looking for.

Attached File(s)


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#42 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 03:37 PM

lol wtf first it was brushed motors and now it's bearings. Dolopap went through two 4x8x3mm bearings in the past month or so.
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#43 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 03:55 AM

okay, here's some late-night research for Doolas, ESC/motor combos.

http://www3.towerhob...RCH=MAMBA+MAX++
These are the combos with the Mamba Max and Mamba Max Pro ESC's. All the motors are Castle's sensorless, but the MMP can make use of sensors as well. MM is kind of old but it was by far the best ESC of its time, the MMP is basically an updated version with sensor abilities, built in fan and high voltage capabilities. You get what you pay for, but if you don't need (or don't care) about the features on the MMP, the MM is worth the money too.

http://www3.towerhob...DEWINDER+1/10++
Castle's Sidewinder series. Great value with warranty. Dolopap has the 4600Kv combo. Sensorless only.

http://www3.towerhob...p?&I=LXXKA8&P=0
updated version of your Havoc ESC with a Ballistic series racing motor. better ESC and motor, but not that big of a step up from what you have already (20% more power).

http://www3.towerhob...p?&I=LXYAV1&P=7
Havoc Pro ESC with a 6.5T Ballistic motor (65% more power than the 10.5T you have).

http://www3.towerhob...p?&I=LXXWM5&P=0
Traxxas Velineon system. waterproof and good torque, but suited better for AWD offroad applications.

If you want to buy the motor/ESC separately, you can have better control over what you want. The Castle ESC's (Mamba Max/Pro, Sidewinder) have PC link, unlike the Novaks. Steve and I have gone Castle ESC's regardless of what motors we run (LRP motors in our drift cars). I'm a big fan of Associated, which is why I buy and recommend using LRP motors. They are expensive but they are race spec. The Castle CM36 series are good sensorless motors, but buying them in a combo is cheaper. Novak Ballistic motors are very very good (much better than their ESC's lol), and will match up to any ESC but the MMP can make use of the sensors too. Team Checkpoint and Tekin both make good motors too, but I don't know anyone who has experience with them. Most of the Tekin guys are 1:8 scale, and Team Checkpoint has been in racing for quite some time.

http://www3.towerhob...wti0093p?&C=CKF
^ brushless motors

my suggestion is that you decide how fancy you want your ESC, then decide on a motor. If a combo comes close to what you want, then go for it.
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#44 User is offline   djSL 

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 10:21 AM

I kinda leaning towards this..

http://www3.towerhob...p?&I=LXUTA7&P=7
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#45 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 10:17 PM

^ +3's out of stock, hopefully they'll be back in when we order.

http://www3.towerhob...23&I=LXUGX0&P=K
also this, for Steve.
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#46 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 02:30 PM

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got my order in from Amain

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8mm Axial socket driver

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unfortunately, it doesn't fit the handles from HK

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got another FM receiver too, this one's a micro that uses a fullsize crystal.
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#47 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 05:13 PM

fixed Book's battery today, some shitty soldering from whoever owned his TT-01 last.

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the soldering broke, so he gave it to me to fix

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it didn't really break, it was cold soldered so bad that the inside of the wire didn't even have solder on it

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stripped the old heatshrink off and it's the same story with the other lead. Saying that this soldering job looks like shit would be an understatement, and I'm genuinely surprised it's lasted this long

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given a proper job and heatshrunked up

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much better
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