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[drift] TC5R

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 12 September 2010 - 01:17 AM

Posting up a project thread for the TC5R. This thread will contain all the things I'm doing with the car.

current status is a CS'd drifter, with a 35% or so overdrive. I think I will need a new chassis plate soon, as the current one is scratched up and probably tweaked from all the collisions. was looking at this one from Exotek: http://exotekracing..../6/29_TC5X.html
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 March 2011 - 11:21 AM

well...I went drifting on Christmas day at my grandparents' house...they have a nice driveway and I was getting some really fun slippery asphalt action, until I ran into my own foot and snapped my rear belt. ):

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teeth are pretty eaten up, I doubt this would've lasted much longer without my crash

after two or three sessions with my race ESC, I can say that it's kind of sad when you need reverse but don't have it, but I haven't caused any crashes since then. I think marshaling should be a part of drifting too lol, since we go everywhere and people usually don't stay in the same area. We're spread out all over the course, even if it is kinda small. The school we go to at nighttime when it's raining has walkways between the buildings, we do a crooked figure 8 course that's probably 15'x10'.

I also stuck back in my old rear diff setup, the ball diff with the Cyclone pulley on it. The Traxxas pulley is too wide and it makes the rear belt sit crooked, and the Cyclone doesn't need a tensioner. We drift mainly on sidewalks, and just found a new place to go (Lili'uokalani Park), the 67%OD is a bit too much for the sweeping corners. It's mostly me sucking at the overdrive, but it's also hard to maintain similar entry speed and lines with all my other friends' 50/50s.

edit: ok well a little disapppointing...I forgot that Tower puts the Cyclone S belt as 'Cyclone Belt' and the Cyclone TC belt as '189 63t'. This means I have two Cyclone S belts when the TC belt was the one I needed...it's ok tho lol, I can sort of make it work. I cannot fit the Cyclone diff pulley as it is literally about 2mm (or 3mm...one tooth) short, so I stuck back in the traxxas pulley and am using that now with a new tensioner setup.

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looks like it hasn't been used in awhile, lol

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I love the brand new look lol. especially compared to the old belt.

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misfocused shot of the tensioner, pulley is taken from an old HPI RS4 pulley set.

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I just flipped my old tensioner upside down and it works perfectly.

edit: just realized that I forgot to put back in the NiMH cell stabilizers back in.
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I was wondering why they kept flying out whenever I would crash hard.

the TC5R hasn't been used in awhile...when will we go drifting again?
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 04:55 PM

did some minor motor repair, it was to ensure the armature was connected to the comm.

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pulling the motor out

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commutator. There's no soldering, which is why I think sometimes it would stop working

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one of my (sadly) Integy hex drivers

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completely letting me down

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so that's where the tip will stay forever...

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stealing the pulley from the Sprint 2 ball diff

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compared to the TC5 one with a Traxxas pulley

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both differentials taken apart

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that's the difference between a $20 diff and a $50 diff...

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well, shit. the diff tensioner broke off in the T-nut too.

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slight razor marks, I had to enlarge just slightly one side of the HPI pulley in order for the TC5 hubs to fit inside nicely.
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#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 02:12 PM

With the back end held tight I must say that the car handles much better now. I should've gone with a F/R spool to begin with...but the grip is higher, and it feels more stable in the corners.
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#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 04:45 PM

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soldered the motor wires on

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then decided to go back to brushless. haha

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the other refurbished Mamba Max Pro that I got when I fried my first two

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there's a lurching issue, but I think it's just the MMP's new firmware

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managed to strip this diff nut too...oh well, back goes the other one.

The TC5R now has front/rear spools, hopefully the handling will be better. I threadlocked both diff screws, so I shouldn't have backing out problems like before.
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#6 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 August 2011 - 11:04 AM

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making a pulley guide out of plastic packaging

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hopefully my belts won't get eaten anymore...
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#7 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 09:11 AM

I took my TC5R out to run on New Years Day, and was unpleasantly surprised by a huge amount of drivetrain friction. I took it apart recently to check out what happened, and this is what I found.

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the rear diff was the problem, as you can see the outdrive is heavily scored

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the bearing was completely siezed, so I pulled it out of the cup and took off the seals.

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if you look carefully, the 6 o'clock ball has an unwanted visitor. I have no idea how it popped out of the cage, but it jammed the entire bearing by being in the wrong place

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after some prying, I managed to get the cage out...and then promptly lost 10 out of the 11 balls. |:

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bearing took some damage, but I just wanted to get it to hold til I could get a replacement...

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Since I had lost all the balls and would have to order new bearings, I decided to do a popular modification to the motor mount

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The stock setup is offset. Since the TC5R was designed in the very last stage of NiMH and brushed motor racing, the balance has to be adjusted for lipo batteries and brushless motors.

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It's offset to the outside of the bulkhead.

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scratching in the outline for the motor mount

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this is where I cut!

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five minutes with a hacksaw later

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new holes for the adjusted motor mount, I also drilled new holes for the battery

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Since the lipos are lighter than the NiMH cells, having it further outwards reduces the amount of balancing weights I have to use

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underside view. I moved over the battery by 6mm.

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after doing this, I realized that I had extra balls from diff rebuilds on my old RC18B. The larger ones are the diff balls, the smaller ones are the diff thrust bearing ones. The thrust bearing balls were just a shave smaller, so I figured I'd give it a shot since I had nothing to lose at this point anyway. The last remaining bearing ball is all the way in the right corner.

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trying to un-bend the retainer as much as I could...

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very difficult balancing act...now I have to slip in the inner race.

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used a vice to hold the two races together while I attempted to place the balls in such a way that the retainer could go back in. I found out the hard way that this requires either special tools, or far more patience than I am capable of. I gave up like a boss.

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In the meantime, I flipped the pinion on the motor and tested out my FWD car.

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perfect! I will either have to shave down the motor mount and upper brace, or just run it without it. We'll see if it's stiff enough without the top deck once I get more diff bearings.

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one bottom shot of the chassis, to see where the components are now placed.

I'm currently borrowing some bearings from skidz24's Cyclone TC while I order replacements...

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interestingly, the Cyclone uses unshielded bearings.

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because I swapped the belts when I did the motor mount mod, I had to move the tensioner pulley to the other side of the bulkhead. It's quite cramped on the spur gear side.

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not quite straight, but it works.

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the setup for now. Until I can dremel both the motor mount (the top screw part sticks up) and the upper deck (the motor needs some of the edge gone to mount properly), it will be running extra-flexy.
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#8 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 05:04 PM

Haven't done much to the TC5R, but I did manage to paint a new body for it in the very few sunny days we had last week.

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masking it up

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about damn time too, I got this body in September 2010

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even see-through, it's very beautiful

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first coat with Gunmetal

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Finished gunmetal, and started spraying the black tint. Decided to tint all the windows instead of painting them black (ie. Supra) afterwards...

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Finished. I didn't get to do the buckets yet, that comes possibly during spring break.
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#9 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 01:53 PM

Haven't gotten much done to the TC5R lately, but I did finally get around to ordering replacement bearings from Boca.

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Instead of getting the whole set, I just got several replacements for the diff outputs and spur gear shaft.

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redid the tensioner, now that it uses only bearings it should run a lot better. The 3x5mm bearings in the old tensioner were siezed pretty hard too.

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Looking from the other side. Yeah, the belt is bust up.

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I also found a way to run the upper deck. Because of the motor mount mod, the motor contacts the upper deck so I had to raise it up using a servo ear barrel thing.

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Unfortunately, in order for the belt to clear the upper deck this solution had to be asymmetrical. This is terrible for chassis tweak, but we'll see how this translates to drifting performance. I'm hoping it's not much.
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#10 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 05:17 PM

Ground down the upper deck with a dremel attachment so it can sit flush again.

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I hope the carbon fiber isn't too thin

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sitting flush next to the motor.
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#11 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 04:40 PM

It's been awhile since I've worked on this car, but due to the lack of drift chassis around Hilo these days I've converted the car back to 50/50 just in case we do some grip driving.

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chassis as is at the start of tonight's wrench session, notice the location of the battery brace

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drilled a new set of holes for the battery brace further out from the center

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now it's further out, so hopefully the lighter lipo can counterbalance the rest of the car now

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also notice that the bullets on the battery clear the upper deck completely now, it wasn't like the original modified setup where one of the bullets were smashed

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trying an aftermarket belt brand, Tough Racing. They're based out of Korea, apparently.

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the stamps on the front belt

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stamps on the rear belt

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un-flipped pulleys and installed the belts, with the one-way diff installed at the front

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back together

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slightly blurry photo of the electronics side
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