Digital.Complex: [done] Fancar v2.1 - Digital.Complex

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[done] Fancar v2.1

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 10:57 AM

You guys remember the original Fancar v2?

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Since the disassembly of the EDF-Revo due to it being turned into an E-Revo, I've had the 4.5" EDF to play with and no motor for the 3.5". What am I to do? Instead of continue with the steel->plexi conversion for Fancar 2.1, I'm doing an all-new fan setup with leftover aluminum from EDF-Revo.

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first off, a caster mod. Done to the car's left side in this pic.

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Putting the top front A-arm in backwards results in twice as much caster (6deg?) Not sure if it will be as effective due to the tires being slippery but it should result in better turning and more straightline stability.

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This time I'm putting the EDF at the back, so I relocated the shocks. For some reason Tamiya left a hole here (sway bar kit?) so I'm utilizing it for the shocks.

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Here's the old motor and fan, weighing in at almost 460g.

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and here's the bad boy off the EDF-Revo: just over 600g.
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 18 March 2011 - 04:20 PM

I posted this originally to GSR back in November 2010. Figured I'd stick it here as well.

Part 1: Battery + Brakes
I ran the fancar in a rather stock(ish) looking setup with the 4s battery in the tray. I was quickly disappointed by the power on 4s as the motor had a very low Kv, suited for high voltage setups. It would take full throttle just to get the Fancar moving, and then it was just not as fast as the previous Fancars have been. There was no other way...this will be, one way or another, an 8s monster again...quite possibly the most batteries anyone has ever shoved into a TT-01 chassis.

I also needed to put the bearings in, as I only had 8 5x11x4's extra...those went all in the wheel hubs. I bought a 10-pack of 5x11x4's from Boca ($8.99!) and installed four more in the central driveshaft. No more stock Tamiya plastic bushings that will unnecessarily slow down the vehicle. Fully ball raced, I now could focus on the braking system.

As we all know, shorting the two ends of a brushed motor together will cause it to brake. I decided to use a simple servo+microswitch setup, I could effectively control the brakes using a channel on the radio. I used one of the 550-size Mabuchi motors I had laying [email protected] means roughly 330Kv, the lowest Kv of any motor I own. Kv alone means nothing when it won't be hooked up to power, but it means that it's a very torquey armature which will be useful in slowing down a very very heavy car. As you can see, it required some modifications to fit, but it does the job perfectly. The braking force is higher than I expected it to be, but it's not hard enough to lock the tires...good, since these brakes are either on 100% or off, lol. I measured the motor's stall current at 10A, which means the microswitch rated [email protected] is probably safe. What the motor is lacking is a schottky diode, which I should probably add on ASAP so I don't fry the switch contacts. Anyway, pictures:

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Mounting the Tekno battery tray on the upper deck

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battery, tray and upper deck are secured using the Turnigy battery straps

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driveshaft removed, ready to install bearings

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view of the spur. If you notice, I had to melt away some of the plastic from the screw post in front of the pinion, this is for fitment issues.

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the Mabuchi's shaft flat only goes halfway down from the end, so I had to mount the pinion backwards. The pinion grub screw is right on the tip of the shaft, and the collar would rub on the screw post if I didn't remove some of it. The gears don't line up perfectly, but since the gears could handle a 10.5 brushless with locked diffs and rubber tires, I'm guessing it can handle braking using 80% of the tooth surface. :mrgreen:

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motor terminals soldered to the microswitch, with the servo hotglued to it. Mounted onto the chassis using foam doublestick tape.

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Fancar v2.1b ready to go!

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reusing the 4s-series battery harness from EDF-Revo

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Loving the short antenna on the Turnigy receiver. Also, you can see the increased caster mod in action.

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with the Turnigy 9x

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shot with the fan running (hard to see)

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rear view with the fan running

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peeking through the window, the Rx has its LED on

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with the trimmed Battle Van body

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top view

Part 2: Body and Bulbs
Now that the main mechanical parts have been tackled, I could now move on to aesthetics. I had painted the Odyssey body the same time I did the RC18T2/B2 bodies, it has just sat in storage until now. I needed to cut out as much as I could from the front of the body so the EDF could breathe properly...this took way too long for my liking, but it does look pretty nice. I was considering doing the 'rolled down window' mod where I only cut out part of the window, but then I realized I needed as much lexan out of the way as possible.

Also, it's been awhile since I've done a body with no lightbuckets so I broke out the hot glue gun and got crackin. I ran out of speaker wire though, so this LED harness is mostly PSU 18AWG. I also decided to reuse the UBEC from the EDF-Revo, as there was a lot of LED's (ten total, 400mA worth...and possibly more later) and it would be easier from a resistor standpoint to run it on 5v. The servos like 6v better, so it makes sense. Plus I won't have to plug in the shell into the receiver with its semi-hidden empty channels, and it allows for photo-ops with the radio system turned off. :mrgreen: I think it turned out very nice though, and it's one of the best looking shells I've done, sadly. :lol:

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making pukas in the bumper so no smash the foglight LEDs

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camera focused on our garden instead of the bumper...but this is how it lines up.

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using Battle Van as a stencil.

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that's a lot to cut out...

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cargo hatch, lol

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all trimmed, and it fits perfectly

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another view, kind of high in the back though

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the back has some issues regarding the square brackets and their fitment

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that's not me being pathetic at cutting straight, that's the mask lifting off lol.

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mask removed. it still amazes me how stunning these things look when it's fresh. it's literally like having a basalt mirror.

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side skirts with the Team Yayoi sakura rims

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view down the side

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okay, now it's time to put some stickers on.

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using the foam color sent me to keep the body from collapsing under pressure

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took some time to stick on a GSR decal on the EDF

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the UBEC was shoved in a little pocket in the TT-01 bathtub, and the wires were ziptied appropriately so it doesn't come out.

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everything finally installed. Caster mod is showing again. Eagle eyed viewers may spot what EDF-Revo has d/evolved into (a normal E-Revo) in the background.

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snagged some leftover hood pins from my friend's Evo body sticker sheet.

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battery very visible

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side shot with straight wheels

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couldn't stop taking pictures, lol.

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trimmed some of the taillight area out so the body wouldn't deform when put on properly.

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easier to see the outline of the shell in the rear. I really wanted to leave the bottom bumper portion intact, but it would tweak when the body is pushed down to proper height. :(

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this is pretty much as low as we could get the fan without starving it for air by having too much chassis in the way

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head-on view. doesn't it look epic?

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closeup. HELLAFLUSH :mrgreen:

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lights off

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and now on!

Sorry there's no video yet...I've only had free time at night since it was built and believe it or not, the single fan on this TT-01 is much, much louder than the EDF-Revo ever was. Why? The airflow is restricted, so there's a lot more internal turbulence. The EDF-Revo had the fans out in the open and even though there was two of them, it was relatively unrestricted. I took careful consideration to keep the rear airflow out of the way of anything, which is why they were mounted relatively high up in the chassis. I learned from that experience, and put this fan as low as possible, due to the 'reverse' longitudinal torque they put on the chassis. Ideally it would be setup like a plane, that is the centerline of the EDF will be more or less in the centerline of the chassis...but then it would be particularly vulnerable to rocks and other crap kicked by tires. Hopefully by being way out in the back, the weight transfer under acceleration will be minimized....but it's hard to see, due to the minimal touring car suspension travel compared to the Revo. I will be in Arizona from tomorrow til Monday, but hopefully by next week there shall be something for you guys to watch. :mrgreen:

I forgot to mention...this bitch is heavy lol. I was balancing my TC5R and decided to put the Fancar 2.1 on just for shits and giggles. My scales max out at 1kg each, and both of the rear scales read 'ERR2'. :lol: The fronts were roughly 450g each, which means it's a bit more than 70% of the weight in the back. What I found out in the one 5-minute run I took it out on, is that it's so damn heavy that the HPI A-compound drift tires grip like foams. That, coupled with the high amount of stick travel on the radio needed to steer lock to lock, means that it's hard to get it to slide when 'driving' normally even if the weight balance is out of whack. I have yet to do a parking lot or street high speed run, but it accelerates decently for being so heavy. I don't think I've hit full throttle yet but it's similar in acceleration to Fancar 2.0...t just sounds a lot more beastly.
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:14 PM

Now that O-Revo is running the 4s Novak HV motor for the forseeable future, the 6s battery is free to go back into Fancar! I'm seriously thinking about getting some 8s (2x4s) lipos for it, but it will be expensive and have really shitty runtime (two minutes full throttle!?).

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reinstalling the Phoenix ICE 100

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crappy blurry photo of the wiring layout

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ready for action!
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#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:52 AM

Seeing as how the Fancar wasn't used in over a year (look at the date of the last post) and was just collecting dust, I decided to take it apart. We are down two drift chassis so I figured this one would be more useful as a drifter.

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farewell, EDF v2.1 TT-01

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re-outfitted as more or less a stock TT-01(E)

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while I was at it, I Arctic Silver 5'd the TEU-101BK ESC mosfets. They are surprisingly good, 4mohm RDSon.

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I also bypassed the ESC power switch, since 1. it was exploded and 2. I want it to be as reliable as possible. I don't run NiMH batteries anymore so this is the best solution since a lipo can't get drained when it's disconnected.

Don't be too sad however, there is another EDF project in the works!
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