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R/C General drifting, racing, touring

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 08:04 PM

ITT we talk about general R/C. Most likely it'll be just RC cars, since I don't know anyone on D.C with a heli/plane of their own, but we'll be open minded. I know I'm one of the only people heavily into R/C tuning around here, but hopefully I can get others to join the hobby... I personally am an electric car enthusiast, nitromethane R/C has its own benefits but I can't afford (both time and money) the maintenance required for nitro machines. Therefore, everything I post or talk about will be electric related.

For those of you who are interested (perhaps not in investing in an R/C of your own...yet...but just want to see), there's a few articles that are really good to start off with.

http://www.easyrc.co...ucks/index.html (introduction to R/C hobby in general)
http://mini-zracing.com/blog/_archives/200...12/2107639.html (Mini-Z introduction)
http://www.towerhobb...dictionary.html (dictionary/quick reference from Tower Hobbies)

This is a webpage run by Tower Hobbies, one of the best online stores for 1/18 and larger parts and supplies. I only have car based models, but perhaps offroad stuff is the one for you (don't know much about them though, so I won't talk about them much). Reading up on the different aspects of the powertrain/electronics helps if you're going into hobby-class R/C. Toy-class will be stuff like you used to find in Radio Shack, their top-of-the-line Xmods series still isn't quite hobby class. The Mini-Z cars you may have seen me play around with are hobby-class, the quality of parts are much higher and the electronics are more powerful (most obvious is the long range of the radios). Some big names in the hobby-class level of R/C car kits include Tamiya, Kyosho, Robitronics, Yokomo, Team Losi, Associated Electronics, Traxxas, HPI, Hot Bodies and Trinity. There are other big-name companies that specialize not in chassis but instead in hop-ups (upgrades, usually made of aluminum, alloy, carbon fiber. FRP or titanium) or electronics components (like motors, servos, batteries, ESC's or radio systems); these include Futaba, PN Racing, Ko Propo, Airtronics/Sanwa, Team Orion, GPM, 3Racing, Atomic, JR Racing, Hitec, Novak and Castle Creations. I'll get around to listing their official websites later, but google will work for now.

If you wanna see what this is all about, you're more than welcome to check out my various cars (Xmods, Mini-Z's) I have in various states of completeness/tune and find out how it works. I'm a member of several micro/hobby R/C communities and have been into this hobby for around five years now...so I should know what I'm doing :lol:
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#2 User is offline   katsu 

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Posted 16 February 2009 - 01:53 AM

I tried driving your's last time and that was pretty fun I guess. Still hard to control for me lol.
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 15 March 2009 - 08:47 PM

played a bit with our TT-01's last night, Katsu's STi didn't have lights so it was hard to drive at 10pm lol. We did get a video with my FXX (that has 18kmcd super white headlights) on-board, but Katsu has yet to put it up on teh tube.
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#4 User is offline   katsu 

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Posted 18 March 2009 - 12:56 AM

Finally did. Those who are interested should take a look. You probably won't be able to see anything, but the end is kinda funny.
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#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 10:57 PM

We really need somewhere reliable to go drifting when it's raining. your garage is nice but not nearly big enough...not to mention my FXX needs some wrench time lol. So sad, I need to superglue or threadlock the bolts on the A-arms or something, they fell out twice today. Fail.
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#6 User is offline   Enoesiw 

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 02:49 AM

Bleh, I have too much physics on my mind. I saw "R/C" and immediately though "Resistor/Capcitor" as in the circuit, not "Remote Control".

So I may have to fish for it, but a while ago my brother was thinking about buying an RC jet (F-22 model I believe). Yeah, sucker was nuts. Not too bad either; entire kit cost like $220 or something like that. The planes were big, too.
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#7 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 02:20 PM

haha that's RC, not R/C. That's why the slash is there lol.

idk how old that was tho, most hobby class plane kits are >$500...I was considering getting one of the ducted fans, but the price of the transmitters was a turnoff...
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#8 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 03:05 PM

well my Tower Hobbies order came in last week, and I installed the Novak Havoc 10.5 brushless motor... with mild gearing changes it's capable of speeds of ~35mph I'm guessing, not bad for a $150 system. Maybe if I get something with more reliable steering I'll plunk down the $250 for the Mamba Max 9000KV system. The Havoc Spec is rated for 4200KV...that means that Mamba 9000 will push it to 70+... /shiver

anyway, I have on the 'real' tires and am having fun shredding them...I can drift on moist (ie. no pooled water) surfaces with ease, and even in the dry if I get lucky.
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#9 User is offline   katsu 

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 08:49 PM

My goodness, so many people are getting into it now! Should be fun haha.
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#10 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 11:23 PM

lol yeah. too bad they all don't come to D.C. including jeremy, only waddles has an account here

edit: almost forgot, put up some videos we took yesterday.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=R2ykRXCJzNw
jeremy drifting...into his own tire

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=9gV5N3NgOgY
Steve doing a little better, tries to drift around a soda can

and the others that I forgot to put up here...

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=xoI5MMFrXWg
cat sue practicing...and failing in the end lol

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=D64WWdZjl5U
original video, me driving
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#11 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 12:48 PM

we need to go drifting more....we also need to buy moar batteries since the STi transmitter doesn't have any lol. We got three running chassis and soon to be five bodies so we need a drift session day!
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#12 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 07 August 2009 - 10:01 PM

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Sho got a new toy :3 Team Associated TC5R.

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building the diffs...

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tried to experiment with the nuts.... dremeled off some of the outside of the 2-56 nuts to make it fit inside the locknut holder. However, the common TC5 ball differential problems then surfaced. Apparently, the spring is extremely hard to compress, and unless you do so, the screw remains out of reach of the nut threads. I ended up breaking one of the plastic holders, and instead just eliminating the holder altogether and putting the nut straight on the spring washer. It functions just as well, and with >60lbs of spring pressure I doubt the lack of nylon locking will pose any problems.

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roughly 80% through the build, as you might have noticed I built the differentials last due to the lack of nuts.

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90% done, built the diffs and all the turnbuckles too.

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rolling chassis completed

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rear belt drive

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put on my +3 TE37's

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completely outfitted. Novak Havoc Spec 10.5 brushless system, Airtronics FHSS receiver, Tower Hobbies TS-140 digital servo and Robinson Racing 24T pinion

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next to dj's TT-01 newly outfitted with a Venom Fireball 21T (it's very good...especially considering the price)

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one more shot of the rear

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and one of the front

I installed a front one-way diff and tightened up the rear ball diff today, we'll see how that affects the drifting tomorrow (if it's not rainy again).
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#13 User is offline   katsu 

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Posted 08 August 2009 - 02:17 AM

foook, I want the one steve has. blargh.
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#14 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 04:08 AM

TB-02 is a great chassis, although there are a few drawbacks. Dunno if it's a design flaw or just manufacturing tolerances, but the servo throw is a lot closer to the chassis than I'd like. Also, you probably heard about skidz having to tear apart the whole transmission case to access anything that needs work/rebuilding.

Got some pics of the FD up :3

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#15 User is offline   katsu 

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:01 AM

eh yeah. Something good for its price and good fo driftinggggg. you gotta help me out when I actually do buy one though, lol.
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#16 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 10:51 AM

Well any AWD 1:10 car will be a platform for drifting, you just have to decide what kind of chassis you want. A higher spec chassis will cost more, but be a lot more precise and consistent. Here's a list of your options, in generally ascending order of price and performance.

Associated Electronics
- RC10TC3 (shaft)
- TC4 (shaft)
- TC5/R/F (belt)

HPI/Hot Bodies
- E10/Drift (shaft)
- Sprint 2 Drift/Sport/Flux (shaft, Sport and Flux are RTR, Flux has brushless system)
- Cyclone S (belt)
- Cup Racer 1M (shaft, note that it's slighly smaller than 'other' 1:10)
- RS4 Pro 3 (belt)
- Cyclone TC (belt)

Kyosho
- TF-5/S/Stallion (belt or shaft)

Tamiya
- TT-01/D/E/ED/R, XB TT-01/E/D/ED (shaft)
- TA04, TA05/v.2 (belt)
- TB-01, TB-02/D, TB-03/D (shaft)
- DF-03/RA (shaft)
- TRF414X, TRF415, TRF416/MSXX (belt)

Yokomo
- Drift Package (shaft)
- MR-4TC/BD (shaft)
- MR-4BX (belt)

Not all of these are sold on Tower, so I won't be able to get you a discount on them (particularly Kyosho and Yokomo) and in fact some of them aren't made at all anymore. Ebay is your best bet. Also, some cars come RTR, or 'ready to run', which means they're prebuilt and all you need usually are batteries.

I think RC Heaven has an HPI E10 Drift RTR in stock locally, check it out online and if you want that one you might be able to pick it up here.
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#17 User is offline   skidz24 

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 12:17 AM

View PostShonen, on 11 August 2009 - 04:08 AM, said:

TB-02 is a great chassis, although there are a few drawbacks. Dunno if it's a design flaw or just manufacturing tolerances, but the servo throw is a lot closer to the chassis than I'd like. Also, you probably heard about skidz having to tear apart the whole transmission case to access anything that needs work/rebuilding.



lol ok the tearing apart to rebuild was just stupidity on my part.
after i did it i realized i could have done it just by removing the turn buckles and removing the axle.
other than that the chassis is good. servo is a bit close but in reality it wouldn't be hard to fix but im lazy haha.
but i do hate those damn turnbuckles. never again. thats probably a lie but ya. sucked.
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#18 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 05:48 PM

haha really? well, live and learn. You can't really beat turnbuckles for adjustability, it's just that those Tamiya ones had kind of a short wrench area.

Took some more photos of the FD and Odyssesy

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#19 User is offline   katsu 

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 10:46 PM

that last pic looks epic.

I don't think I'll be picking up an R/C car. I could probably save up for one, but then I'll get hooked and start buying more and more parts, not to mention maintaining the sucker. So yeah, I'll still tag along when we go drifting, but I highly doubt I'm getting one.
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#20 User is offline   skidz24 

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Posted 27 August 2009 - 12:35 AM

lol well for the turnbuckles i figured out i could just take em off and twist em instead of using that wrench. not how youre supposed to do it but itll do haha. argh i want alum parts now. but i dont wanna spend more monies haha. we'll see. mayb birthday money will b spent on that haha.
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#21 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 28 August 2009 - 11:56 AM

yep yep birthday coming up for both of us lol.

I was browsing around for lipos and found a site that carries RC18 sized stuff!

http://www.pfmdistribution.com/

They might have other sizes that fit the 1:10 touring cars we have too, haven't checked tho. The prices are pretty real and shipping is only $6 I think.

edit: the scales are in, if you guys are interested in balancing your cars. I tested the setup and my TC5R is quite terribly out of balance...this is without a battery, but still.

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scales set up under the TC5R, these particular measurements were taken with the battery removed.

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253.9 gram front passenger side

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263.4 gram rear passenger side

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334.5 gram rear driver's side, don't mind my noob status lexan cutting

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315.5 gram front driver's side

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got em on ebay, lot of four for $27 shipped.

empty front/rear weight distribution is relatively good 48.78%, and left/right weight distro is 55.68% I'll get more readings with the battery in and see where I have to add lead weights.
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#22 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 12:31 PM

TC5R specs!
Differential Ratio: 1
Transmission Ratio: 2
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 87
Pinion Tooth Count: 24
Total Voltage: 7.4
Motor KV: 4200
Tire Diameter (inches): 2.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 32
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.63 : 1
Total Ratio: 7.25 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 7.85 inches (199.49 mm)
Rollout: 1.08:1
Total Motor Speed: 31080 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 31.88 mph (51.22 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 4200
KT constant: 0.32 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.05 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 0.39 ft-lbs
Final Power: 236.8 watts (0.3 HP)


RC18B specs!
Differential Ratio: 2.5
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 60
Pinion Tooth Count: 19
Total Voltage: 11.1
Motor KV: 6800
Tire Diameter (inches): 2
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 30
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.16 : 1
Total Ratio: 7.89474 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 6.28 inches (159.59 mm)
Rollout: 0.80:1
Total Motor Speed: 75480 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 56.89 mph (91.38 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 6800
KT constant: 0.2 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.03 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 0.25 ft-lbs
Final Power: 333 watts (0.4 HP)


Just calculated this stuff on this website: http://scriptasylum...._top_speed.html

It's geared (lol) towards buggies and stuff it seems, but can be used with anything. The Novak Havoc Spec system I have in my TC5R is a great motor setup for racing, but as you can see the Mamba Micro Pro in the buggy is simply rediculous with a 3S lipo battery. The scary thing is that the buggy is currently geared as low as possible, so it's simply a matter of changing gears in order to make it blast close to 70mph with the same setup... if I use the wheel adapters to use the 1:10 rims on the buggy, my setup now will hit 70mph, and if I gear it down then it means I can crack 85mph o_0
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#23 User is offline   skidz24 

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 11:33 PM

just wrapped the hood in vinyl and tried to candy apple red the tails so they're red but still clear. guess the paint was old so when i put the coat on it didnt set right. theres minor runs but cant really tell unless you go up close. getting closer to being done haha.

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#24 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 02:37 PM

looking good. taillights came out pretty nice, all it needs now is some lights :)

Edit: found a blog dedicated to bringing updates and tips/tricks for tuning 1:12 scale pan cars. For whoever's seen a Mini-Z before, the heavily modified Mini-Z's resemble pan cars (like GSR's MRCG) and it's pretty much the same. High-grip RWD-only racing, the focus being on cornering speed and ability to change direction quickly, not raw power. This blog is probably gonna be hella boring to most of you, but for someone really into it (and OCD) it's actually an interesting read. Check it out, the attention to detail in pan racing is pretty intense.

http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

another edit: finally got the (hopefully) last batch of upgrades for the RC18B.

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2x AE diff rebuilds, 1x Robinson Racing hardened 20T pinion, 2x The Toyz steel gears, 1x titanium ballstud set, 2x GPM titanium differential outdrives, 1x AE diff shim set, 1x Roadtech servo spring set, 1x Exotek slipper clutch system

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With these parts, you can actually build a new set of differentials which didn't require me dismantling the old ones :mrgreen: so convenient

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the machine marks on the diff outdrives is apparent, but it's not like I care since the parts you can see are really smooth. The grooves will help retain the diff grease that sticks the D-plate to the diff housing.

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greased up and ready for my balls

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diff set, thrust bearing built also

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secksey~

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the not so gently used drivetrain, the bevel gear facing the camera has been rounded quite badly, it wouldn't transmit power anymore.

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the old ballstud set and random drivetrain parts

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new ballstud set, pinion, servo springs and slipper clutch visible

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chassis ready to accept parts...it's pretty dirty since we drove it in dirt yesterday one last time

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random parts again...heatsink is an ebay type with removed fins (two on left is for the driveshaft/upper deck, one on the right is so it will fit with the existing Factory Team heatsink).

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titanium ballstuds in the steering bellcrank

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slipper clutch in place, auxilary heatsink installed

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new pinion vs old pinion :D more top end

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front end of the slipper clutch

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oooohhhh sexy

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rear drivetrain (without swing shafts)

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ready to accept the batteries and wheels

and here's the stats
Differential Ratio: 2.5
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 57
Pinion Tooth Count: 20
Total Voltage: 11.1
Motor KV: 6800
Tire Diameter (inches): 2.3
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 30
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.85 : 1
Total Ratio: 7.125 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 7.23 inches (183.53 mm)
Rollout: 1.01:1
Total Motor Speed: 75480 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 72.49 mph (116.44 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 6800
KT constant: 0.2 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.03 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 0.22 ft-lbs
Final Power: 333 watts (0.4 HP)


it's 99% finished... I just have to replace the antenna on the receiver (stupid me used solid wire last time I fixed it) and it's good to go. However, (predictably,) it's raining. It's been raining ever since the parts came in the mail D:

in other news, got new gears for the TC5

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AE 69T spur, Robinson Racing 35T pinion

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out of the package. I'll take a pic of it on the car later.

also, check this out...a new generation of lithium polymer cell that can be charged at up to 6C (!) and discharged at a continuous 45C (!!) with a burst of 90C (!!!)
http://www.amainhobb...5C-222V-5000mAh
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#25 User is offline   djSL 

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Posted 12 December 2009 - 06:46 PM

ho bah. So this is interesting.



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#26 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 12 December 2009 - 07:15 PM

hm that is a nice looking multilevel track and nice job on the shells but they weren't very good at driving them at all...even I can do better than that.
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#27 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 12:06 AM

did a small car chassis review for olopop.

well, first things first....shaft vs. belt. long story short, shaft drive is for reliability and convenience, and belt drive are for BAMFs.
BELT
pros: much smoother running than shaft, can handle unlimited power, adjustable tension (suit conditions), upgraded differentials are usually cheaper and easier to re/build, requires less bearings, spur gear easier to change
cons: more expensive to run/replace, can be damaged by rocks flying in the mesh, wires can be tangled/rubbed by belts

SHAFT
pros: lower maintenance, keeps CoG lower, cheaper, aluminum driveshafts look nice, more robust to shit flying in them
cons: require more bearings, cannot handle high power brushless motors, spur gear choice is limited, noisier, require grease in gearboxes, differentials usually more expensive

okay, now on to the chassis. there are a lot of options from multiple companies, I'm just listing the ones I'd recommend, was looking at, and/or have owned. The more expensive, carbon racing chassis usually do not come with electronics or bodies so add that on to the cost ($30 or so for a body, $80 or so for a good quality radio set, $100 or so for a good quality motor/ESC combo).

HPI E10 (shaft)
pros: cheap, easy to run/maintain, aftermarket readily available, adjustable weight bias, comes assembled
cons: non-adjustable suspension/alignment, will require upgrades to be a competitive drifter
cost: rolling chassis $95, RTR ~$180

Tamiya TT-01 (shaft)
pros: cheap, easy to run/maintain, largest aftermarket options, Dalas and I have both had these so we know how to fix shit
cons: non-adjustable suspension/alignment, will require upgrades to be a competitive drifter (differentials, suspension), assembly required (con if you dislike spending an hour or two putting it together), proprietary Tamiya gear pitch (forced to buy Tamiya gears), low ground clearance
cost: kit ~$110-$200+ depending on spec (R, Type-E) and body), RTR ~$260

HPI Sprint 2 (belt)
pros: adjustable suspension/alignment/ride height, comes with aluminum parts/oil shocks/bearings, large aftermarket selection, takes standard spur gears, superior L/R balance
cons: differentials are still planetary gear (open)
cost: kit ~$150, RTR ~$210

Tamiya TB-02D (shaft)
pros: adjustable suspension/alignment, comes with LSD/oil shocks/bearings/aluminum driveshaft/stainless screws,
cons: some things small kine humbug to adjust/remove
cost: kit w/o body: $200

Associated TC3 (shaft)
pros: older so can be found for cheap on ebay (popular back in the day)
cons: older so aftermarket may not be as big
cost: dunno (can prob find for under $200 with extras)

Associated TC4 (shaft)
pros: shares a lot of parts with TC3, adjustable suspension/alignment, comes with bearings/oil shocks, might find for cheap on ebay (popular a few years ago)
cons: only comes as RTR if you want it new
cost: RTR $240 (only need 8x AA for transmitter)

Associated TC5/TC5R/TC5F (belt)
pros: full carbon fiber/aluminum chassis, comes with oil shocks/CVD/LSD/ARB, adjustable suspension/alignment/chassis stiffness/wheelbase/ride height/ackermann/bump steer/squat, all aluminum parts anodized blue, interestingly has a large aftermarket, comes in rubber/foam spec (low/high grip tuned)
cons: expensive, doesn't come with wheels/body/tires
cost: kit w/o body $360

Kyosho TF-5 (belt or shaft)
pros: full carbon fiber/aluminum chassis, comes with oil shocks/CVD/LSD/ARB, adjustable suspension/alignment/chassis stiffness/wheelbase/ride height/ackermann/bump steer/squat, all aluminum parts anodized red
cons: expensive
cost: kit w/o body $430

Hot Bodies (HPI) Cyclone-S (belt)
pros: comes with bearings/LSD/oil shocks/aluminum motor mount, adjustable suspension/alignment, counter-steer pulley overdrive compatible, may be specced-up to Cyclone TC
cons: doesn't come with body, Hot Bodies is basically HPI but more expensive
cost: kit w/o $160

Hot Bodies Cyclone-TC (belt)
pros: full carbon fiber/aluminum chassis, comes with oil shocks/CVD/LSD/ARB, adjustable suspension/alignment/chassis stiffness/wheelbase/ride height/ackermann/bump steer/squat, all aluminum parts anodized purple
cons: expensive, limited aftermarket outside of HPI brand
cost: kit w/o body $390

Tamiya TA05 (belt)
pros: comes with oil shocks/LSD/bearings, adjustable alignment, supposed to be counter-steer pulley overdrive compatible, three-differential setup
cons: asymmetric belt drive, lots of plastic parts that should be alloy
cost: kit ~$200

Yokomo MR-4TC BD (belt)
pros: full carbon fiber/aluminum chassis, comes with oil shocks/CVD/LSD/ARB/titanium screws, adjustable suspension/alignment/chassis stiffness/wheelbase/ride height/ackermann/bump steer/squat, all aluminum parts anodized blue
cons: prohibitively expensive, doesn't come with body/wheels/tires/electronics
cost: kit w/o body $720

Yokomo Drift Kit (shaft)
pros: this is the kit that exploded the whole RC drift scene. adjustable suspension/alignment, comes with bearings/LSD/oil shocks/front CVD/aluminum motor mount.
cons: only comes as RTR, Yokomo = expensive
cost: RTR $430

Xray T2R (belt)
pros: full fiberglass/aluminum chassis, comes with oil shocks/CVD/LSD/ARB, adjustable suspension/alignment/chassis stiffness/wheelbase/ride height/ackermann/bump steer/squat, all aluminum parts anodized silver
cons: succeeded by Xray T3
cost: kit w/o body $290

Xray T3 (belt)
pros: full carbon fiber/aluminum chassis, comes with oil shocks/CVD/LSD/ARB, adjustable suspension/alignment/chassis stiffness/wheelbase/ride height/ackermann/bump steer/squat, all aluminum parts anodized orange, comes in rubber/foam spec (low/high grip tuned)
cons: expensive
cost: kit w/o body $490
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#28 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 04:37 PM

Uploaded some pics of the TC5R/Silvia body.

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S15 Silvia body

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rear of the body

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new battery in place

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got a new radio system (Futaba 3PM-X)

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better cable management

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with the body on

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rear of the body

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manual switch with reverse

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ready to go

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60 second exposure time (three chassis running)\

I also took a picture after buggy got crashed (fukkin Ola)
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and we took a video after we fixed/replaced/rebuilt it. I have an epic crash near the end lol.

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#29 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 11:41 AM

/happy happy
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http://67.199.85.166....php?text=20103 [pdf]

I dunno how much you guys care about 1:18 offroad, but for me this is quite a big moment. My favorite line of pocket rockets has been updated! Associated's RC18 series has its second generation coming soon. here's the lowdown...

open shaft -> closed belt
direct drive -> slipper clutch (thanks Exotek for making a SC for the original)
improved servo saver
2.5 -> 2.0 internal ratio (better for those top speed tuners...cough cough)
154mm -> 166mm wheelbase (stability)
541g -> 500g weight
232mm -> 255mm length (slightly bigger)

it also comes as a hybrid kit, comes with six tires (two narrow for buggy and four standard for buggy/truck) and both bodies, and hardware to convert. because of this, the Factory Team kit is around $200 (vs $130 for the original RC18 FT kit). Hopefully it'll retain the same rim setup, as the rims it comes with are dish types and not very cool looking...

I want one :( the RC18B-FT skidz bought will donk its face though, but I have a feeling that the chassis potential will be a lot higher.
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#30 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 03:46 AM

^ update on the RC18v2, the kit on Tower will be $130 as well. so looking forward to it, I'll definately pick one up after Kawaii Kon if I have enough money left over.

Okay so here's the deal with the soon upcoming Tower orders. Some of the shit we need is out of stock, so I'm planning on making three orders (mostly for me, but a lot for you guys too).

Order 1: (all me)
Traxxas Gear Cover Single Motor E-Revo, $3.39: for me, my E-Revo single motor conversion. previous owner was too chang to convert the transmission cover.
Castle Creations 1/8 Mamba Monster/Neu-Castle 2200kV, $296,99: for me, out with chang brushless and in with Mamba power
$300 discount code: -$60.00
UPS 2-Day: $25.00
Total: $265.38

Order 2: (everyone)
Traxxas Body Clips T/E-Maxx (12), $2.89: for me, the E-Revo previous owner only included two body clips (my guess is he wrecked so many times he lost the rest). This is Revo only, they're huge.
Traxxas Motor Plate Single Motor Instillation E-Revo, $9.39: for me, to finish the single-motor conversion
RPM Front A-Arms Right Black Revo (2), $13.99: for me, RPM arms are unbreakable.
RPM Front A-Arms Left Black Revo (2), $13.99: for me, again
RPM A-Arms Rear Black Revo (2), $11.99 x2: for me, again
Tower Hobbies 224 System 2.4 2-Channel 2.4GHz Rx Only: for me and Steve mostly, if anyone wants to help split this. It's the receiver for Fancar v2.
HPI Mesh Wheel 26mm Black (2), $11.06: for Steve, Evo rims.
Traxxas Heavy Duty Servo Saver Spring Revo, $2.39: for me, upgrade needed with single servo conversion
Hitec HS-7955TG V2 Dig High Resolution HT Titanium Gear, $119.95: for me, extreme torque digital servo for my E-Revo.
Traxxas Body Clips (12), $3.82: for everyone, we're running low on the silver body clips. found these to be extremely easy to use.
HPI Ball Differential Maintenance Set Sprint, $34.36 x2: for Dalas/Katsu, ball differential set for the Sprint2 chassis.
Top Flite Power Point Balancer, $19.99: for me mostly, but anyone who wants to balance their tires can help pitch in
$300 discount code: -$60.00
UPS 2-Day: $25.00
Total: $276.16

Order 3: (everyone too, but back orders)
Traxxas Body E-Revo, $22.59: for me, another E-Revo body, since the previous owner fucked both of mine up
Castle Creations CC Blower Monstr Mtr Cool Fan & Shroud, $11.99: for me, looks sick, and will enable me to run all day
Associated 1/18 RC18T2/B2 Team Truck/Buggy 4WD Kit, $$123.99: for me, eheh...
HPI Composite Threaded Shock Set 50-55mm (2), $17.99 x4: for Dalas/Katsu, threaded oil shock absorber. shock bodies are still plastic but it's better than paying $35 for two aluminum bodied dampers right?
HPI Pulley Set 15T Sprint RTR, $3.89: spares for Dalas/Katsu, or used by me/Steve for countersteer modding attempt.
Associated Factory Team Center Pulley 20T TC5, $5.69: spares for me, or used by Dalas/Katsu/Steve for countersteer modding attempts
Associated LRP Vector X-12 6.5 Turn Brushless Motor, $84.99: for Steve, LRP Vector X-12. Unless you want to wait for the Octa Wind series?
Cart is at ~$240 right now, $40 discount...can add more to this cart if you want to get higher discount. UPS 2-Day will probably be $35.

Order 4: (me and Steve)
Futaba R603FF 3-Channel 2.4GHz FASST Rx 3PM 3PK 4PK, $173.48: extra FASST receiver for Steve (buggy) and me (buggy2)
Castle Creations 1/10 Mamba Max Pro ESC Smart Sense, $127.99: for Steve, Katsu might want one too
$300 discount code: -$60.00
Priority Mail: $3.00
UPS 2-Day: $25.00
Total: $266.47

There's not much cheap stuff to get on Tower, if Dolopop/Katsu are looking into a solid brushed/brushless ESC, the Castle Creations Sidewinder is a good sport speed controller, going for around $70. If you save a bit more cash though the Mamba Max Pro also from Castle is an awesome deal at $120. go look around and tell me if you need anything else from there. I'm placing the first two orders very soon, probably Sunday night.
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