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[done] O-Revo

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 10:10 PM

Here's the headlines:
Motor: Hobby King 500H 1600Kv brushless outrunner
ESC: Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro (formerly Phoenix ICE 100)
Battery: Zippy 6s 2650mAh 20C lipo
Servos: Traxxas 2705 (single, steering), Tower Hobbies TS-129 (braking)
Gearing: Tekno Elektri-Clutch v2 (3-shoe), Associated 15t clutchbell, 36t Revo spur
Other: Tekno 36mm motor mount, Summit springs

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dual stock brake discs

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current setup

Youtube:
[RC] Revo 3.3 conversion beta (not outrunner'd yet)
[RC] Outrunner Revo 3.3 conversion
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 March 2011 - 11:10 AM

I pulled the front diff out last night to add some 500k oil in, since O-Revo seems to enjoy unloading once it gets on two wheels.

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pulling out the bulkhead

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lube in the diff case

I forgot to take more photos, but this is indeed the nitro spec diff, without the I-bar between the planetary gears. It shouldn't be a problem since the Hobby King outrunner makes almost exactly the same power as the TRX3.3, also has a clutch, and O-Revo is lighter than a standard Revo 3.3 by two pounds.
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 09:02 AM

added some LEDs into O-Revo's hacked up body last night, it got lonely when its brothers went out to play at night :P

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stole the servo plug off the now useless MX-3 battery tray

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LEDs hotglued in and soldered together

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first impression, one of its front LEDs appears to be differently colored :\

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2x 8mm warm white (one came out yellow though), 2x 5mm orange

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2x 8mm red, since I have over 9000 of them

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did quite a shitty job at aligning the 5mm LEDs this time lol.

group pic sometime this weekend.
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#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 01:33 AM

Because this chassis is still making use of the mechanical brakes, I thought to mount up a microswitch to simulate actual brake lights. The way I did it makes use of the reverse shifting servo mounting block, so I suppose you would have to use FOC on this but it is definitely possible to glue the microswitch to the braking servo, and use another one on the shifting servo to simulate both brake and reverse lights...but I don't want reverse, my third channel is for brake mixing.

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had to fix this first lol

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one of the rear LEDs burned out, found out it was because I forgot to put resistors...

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I guess it got hot enough to melt the solder and hot glue

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taking apart the stripped Traxxas shifting servo.

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there was internal gear damage, but interestingly the logic board didn't work either.

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looking at the guts

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completely disassembled. I will be borrowing the top

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putting it in place where it should be

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mounting a microswitch on the servo, drilled a hole through the case and used an RC18 ball stud

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looking from below. blue sort of matches

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mounted in place, had to bend the actuator to get it to work perfectly.

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soldering the resistors onto the microswitch tabs

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everything wired up for testing

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when waiting for the hot glue gun to heat up, I worked on adding a rear brace to this Revo too.

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installed

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semi-final setup. I put hotglue over all solder connections on the microswitch to prevent things from coming off since I plan on doing a lot of jumps with this truck.

I shot two testing videos, check them out:


initial testing, showing how the braking servo trips the microswitch


driving it around in my backyard
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#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 01:22 PM

Did some repairs and mods to O-Revo.

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damage done when the front diff input screw pin let go

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the affected yoke

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modding the servo saver (perhaps a bit too much, in retrospect)

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the washer preloads the rather weak stock spring. it's effective at stiffening, so much that I stripped a 2075 servo this weekend.

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bolting the servo saver assembly back together.

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huge preload, I think it will work better (ie. not strip gears) if the washer was smaller. maybe a stack of shims will do the trick.

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removing the rear wing, and putting the stock nitro bumper back on

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pulling out the motor for cleaning, it got really dusty from my run in the park.

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stator not so bad

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rotor kind of dusty

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much better after air blasting

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readjusting the oil in the rear diff

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500k in the rear as well

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reassembly

also bought and painted up a new body, a Pro-line F-650. unfortunately, it was the Revo 2.5R version, but it still fits fairly well.

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spraying the silver on first

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front grill and bed boxes looking good

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on goes the white

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one of my paint cans were leaking...

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silver-white-white-white-white-silver-silver-smoke

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body post holes drilled

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looking good so far

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decals applied

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looks sweet

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rear view

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dynamic pose!

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last photo I took before I stuck LEDs in the body

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I unfortunately took some damage while doing the body, my xacto decided to land in my knee.
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#6 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 03:57 PM

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replacing the servo with a Turnigy unit

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this is a non full alloy version of the servo in Dolopap's E-Revo.

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installed
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#7 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 05:28 PM

I threw a screw pin last week while running it at the park, so I took a night to do some screw maintenance and took some time to lap the brake discs for more consistent braking.

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hanging rear shaft

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a FWD monster truck really is no fun at all...

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transmission removed

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stock brake discs and their uneven wear/rust pattern

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after about half an hour on 320 grit dry-then-wet sanding

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after another half an hour on 600 grit wet

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20 minutes on 1000 grit wet

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20 minutes on 2000 grit wet. I didn't grind down the discs all the way, as there are still rust in the middle of the left one and gouges on the right one (it was actually bent, and I had to bend it back).

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reinstalled on the transmission

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tried the servo saver spring preload mod again, this time using a washer half as thick from EDF-Revo's parts box

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everything put back together

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after a quick test drive, the brakes really do feel more consistent now

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complete! Total time: around three hours
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#8 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 12:39 PM

Got some 17mm hexes in, but also blew the motor. At least it's keeping things interesting.

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one of the original hex pins cracked right in the middle.

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comparing the original TRX 14mm to the HPI 17mm

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bolts right up but....there's a gap.

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making use of the expensive neoprene washers I bought for EDF-Revo

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perfect

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hex butted up against the washer

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washer squished, hex now all the way against the pin

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Revolver Zombies installed.

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also snagged $3 set of ten 5x11x4mm bearings off ebay when I got the hexes. This will be to replace the metal shielded Bocas and the (embarrasingly) TT-01 bushings.

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bearings replaced

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there's that familiar Traxxas look, minus the SS rocker screws

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ready for action!

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got back from that bash sessh and noticed that the motor had gone floppy

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I pulled it out, and immediately noticed that a shim was destroyed

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once it was apart it was easy to see why

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stator section completely cracked off from the front bell, and the magnets took some of the windings with it.

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scratches on the magnets

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so...for now, O-Revo is now B-Revo.

I stuck in a generic Mabuchi 550 so at least it's driveable, but seeing as how the torquey brushed motor is 330Kv it's extremely (laughably) slow even on 6s...

Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538463
Transmission Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 54
Pinion Tooth Count: 12
Total Voltage: 24.00
Motor KV: 330
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.8
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 10
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 4.5 : 1
Total Ratio: 42.36391 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 18.22 inches (462.82 mm)
Rollout: 0.43:1
Total Motor Speed: 7920 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 3.23 mph (5.18 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 330
KT constant: 4.1 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.21 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 9.04 ft-lbs
Final Power: 240 watts (0.3 HP)

240W is a generous estimate, considering the datasheet claims it pulls 10A at dead stall. This does have the excellent side effect of being able to run the truck for a long ass time. We had an hour-long RC sessh with both the drifters and B-Revo, and at the end of the day I only put 720mAh back into the battery...and this is with 200mA of LEDs, and two high-torque digital servos in steering and braking.
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#9 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:11 PM

The Mabuchi motor is just too slow for us to have fun with it lol. I stuck in the Novak HV 6.5 just so it's driveable again...

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using one of the first sets of lipo batteries we've bought

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motor setup. I decided to give the MMP's CHEAT system a try. it's interesting, to say the least...but it doesn't really help in a monster truck.

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after-run teardown

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overheated brake rotors...

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both sides.
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#10 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 12:03 PM

new Hobbyking order came in, which means O-Revo is back in action!

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new Typhoon 500H motor, rated 1800Kv but reportedly acts like a 1900Kv motor.

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16AWG soft wires. much better than the standard twisted enamel wire.

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size comparison next to the Novak 550

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almost standard 540 size, just a mm fatter

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but there's plenty of room in the Tekno mount

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stealing the bullets off the broken 500H motor

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since the shaft is slightly longer, I needed to drill new holes in the very multipurpose mounting plate to push the motor back about 2mm

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running around in my backyard, I pulled this. Not bad at all

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rated for 55A. It does heat up rather quickly, but I haven't done a full bash session yet.

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another thing I got in the shipment was that $11 Turnigy camera. I'll upload the vid I took later, it seems around the same quality as the keychain one.

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O-Revo's current setup.
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#11 User is offline   color0 

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Posted 23 June 2011 - 09:36 AM

Dude, the guts of the keychain camera are ubiquitous if you actually look hard enough. It's decent enough for anything not requiring good definition, which is like most hobby purposes. :P

I thought we were going to do website work last weekend?! Stood me up man. :(
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#12 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 23 June 2011 - 10:39 AM

): sorry...one of my friends was leaving for a month and we ended up spending all day at his place...hnng. wanna try again for this sunday?

edit: got a photo of the wattmeter when I ran it at the park earlier this week.

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[email protected]: twice as many watts as the old motor, nearly.

The top speed is much higher even with the 38t spur, but I did manage to explode something inside the transmission...more than likely due to the explosive power this motor has.
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#13 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 03:48 PM

I tore open the transmission Friday night to see what happened...my guess was either the OWB or something on first gear.

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pulling it out

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trans by itself now

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slipper clutch looks good

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once the case was apart though, the cause became clear.

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first gear's input gear has been shredded

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teeth laying on the bottom of the transmission case

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based off the BrianG 2nd Gear lock, I decided to go a different route since I'm not using an 'extreme' brushless motor. drilling a hole right beneath the centrifugal clutch arm

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a set screw in there prevents the arm from closing, thus locking the transmission in 2nd gear.

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the set screw is long enough so that it's impossible to back out while it's still in the clutch

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put a long set screw in on the shift adjustment side, to counterbalance. it's backed out as far as possible for anti-reversion. I took this photo before I cleaned out the metal shavings by the bearing.

We took it out for a spin on Saturday, and it seems to work very well. It seems to accelerate smoother due to the taller gearing and more powerful outrunner. I'm surprised the transmission stripped at all, due to there being two clutches between it and the motor, but there we have it. I suppose I'll run the slipper a bit looser this time.
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#14 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:12 PM

not much of news with O-Revo right now, other than the fact that I really am not liking the newer motor. It has more power, but because of that it makes more heat and it also has trouble starting sometimes (refuses to start spinning, even with the Elektri-Clutch). I did manage to free the stuck set screw from my 18t 0.8M pinion, and drill it out to accept a bigger one.

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drilled out the old, tiny, cracked/stuck set screw

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now it accepts M4 thread, currently using an M4x4mm set screw.

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took the truck to Kapoho this past weekend...sigh. Back to the Elektri-Clutch and higher gearing it is.
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#15 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 11:36 AM

as the FPV project is actually taking shape again, I'm prepping the O-Revo chassis for it.

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out comes the transmission

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found some rocks and crap stuck in the gears.

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there's this much missing...oh well.

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finally got around to removing the ruined piece of 1st gear.

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like a boss

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reverse idler gear going back in

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gears fitting properly again (doing this from memory was quite hard)

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taking off the semi-ruined 1st gear, and managed to fubar the snap ring in the process. :s

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OWB and hex went back in for proper spacing purposes

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because I removed half the other side of the input gear, I had to use this TT-01 suspension bushing to space it properly.

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transmission back together and working properly. The reverse shifter fork is poking out below the brake cam.

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I don't have any micro servos left...

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had to drill out the ears for the M3 screws to fit

I still have to pick up the actual reverse shifting hardware...
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#16 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 09:57 AM

I got the shifting spring from RC Heaven, and a ballcup that fits. All I was missing was the actual pushrod, so I found one on eBay for sale (with the other Revo control rods) for $3.

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as I got it from Abe

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installed in O-Revo

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put together with the brake linkage

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got the rest of the parts on eBay, including a spare brake linkage and engine related ones I will probably never use

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joy of joys, the Futaba 3PM FM I bought on RC Tech came with a Traxxas micro shift servo. woohoo

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set up to use with the 3PM FM, until all the parts get in for the steering wheel project. Hurry up, China.

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a shot of the new (old) radio, and the truck is back in action.
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#17 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 05:19 PM


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#18 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 05:13 PM

Here's some photos of the stuff I did for the drift Revo. I had some wheels left over...I think these were the 3.8" ones that had the blown Maxx tires on them that I kept. I snapped off the lip for the tire bead to go into, and they were almost the right diameter for the ABS pipe that I bought (about 1/8" too small).

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painting the scratched up wheels with bedliner-type spray texture

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looks pretty boss

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removing the tape from the lip for glue. I didn't do the best paint job, but it's difficult to get that on thoroughly without soaking the surface.

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one length of pipe gives me eight tires. two sets is not bad from one pipe, but it did cost me $10...

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if this set performs well, I may consider beveling the edges on the other one before installing.

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mounted on the Revo

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they are rediculously low-profile, but seem to work just fine.

You may be able to see some white stuff poking out from the inside of the rims. I decided to use a single layer of packing foam (the one that looks like thick paper) around the middle of the wheel to act as a self-centering spacer. I glued the inside lip with hot glue; this may not be the best, but I don't see myself pushing the limits of anything with this project. If it falls off I'll use something better, but for the low speed testing it was completely fine.
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#19 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 04:47 PM

I replaced the motor with the outrunner again so that hopefully the additional power makes the truck more fun to play with.

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last photo of the truck with the FPV setup

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removing the two-part ESC

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outrunner back in, with an 18t 32p pinion

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the 'just testing' setup

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for lack of a better place to put it

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much less cluttered over there

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ready to accept the body. also, I rerouted the ESC-motor wires to avoid getting them snagged by the pinion/spur

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F-650 body is kind of dusty from non-usage

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quick cleanup and it looks much better

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can't wait for it to stop raining so I can finally take it back out again
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#20 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 07:58 PM

So, as it turns out, one of my friends is in the process of buying O-Revo from me and converting it into the ERBE spec. Unfortunately, this means that it is the end of the O-Revo as we know it. I might end up pursuing another project using this chassis but only the future will tell us.
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