Digital.Complex: Changing LED and/or thermal paste of Xbox 360 PSU - Digital.Complex

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Changing LED and/or thermal paste of Xbox 360 PSU (for Xbox-Scene) Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 26 December 2008 - 01:04 AM

First off, follow BCfosheezy's PSU opening guide carefully, heed his warnings of OPEN DEATH KILL SHOCK SPARK FIRE and if you're still unfazed, carry on. Note that there is a disclaimer of my own....if you choose to follow this tutorial/walkthrough, anything that happens is not my fault. You accept the fact that working with line voltages are dangerous, that you must know exactly what you're doing before undertaking this project. Got it? Good, let's start.

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After you've unscrewed everything and removed all the thermal paste (there is a ton of it, be careful and try not to let it get everywhere....) this is what you have. Note, do not remove the yellow tape! That heatsink is separate from the main one and should not be shorted together! Also note that if you are planning on replacing the thermal compound, make sure you have a lot of it (and Arcticlean too). I depleted nearly my entire tube of Ceramique and two bottles of Arcticlean just from doing one PSU unit! You have been warned. That said, the case of the PSU does get a lot warmer than before, so it's worked.

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Flip the pcb assembly over, and desolder the LED. There's four pins to unsolder, dunno why MS decided against common cathode/anode. Anyway, remove the plastic mounting hardware (the top slides off, or you can pry the wings open with a screwdriver and remove it from the top), and then the LED can be slid out from the plastic.

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Replace the LED with two of your own (one standby color, one power-on color). I used a 5mm stubnose blue ultrabright, and a 3mm white ultrabright. you can try and squish two 3mm LED's in I suppose, but since I was using a 5mm I had to stick the 3mm behind it, and have it shine through.

In hindsight, this wasn't so much of a good idea, since when my PSU is on standby only the top half of the circular indicator is lit when looking at it, but it was the best I could come up with at the time. Hot glue or something may help with a more creative setup.

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More views of the LED assembly

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Solder it back in, I'll put up the polarity of the LED's asap (forgot at the moment)

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Replace all of the aluminum heatsinks, making sure to spread thermal paste (Arctic Silver compounds recommended). I personally used Ceramique, as it was all I had, but it works a lot better than the existing white goo. Note that you have to leave those screws that I left out, well, out, as they screw in on top of the last remaining plate.

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Complete assembly by putting everything back where it belongs, and hopefully it works! First shot is of standby (note the top-half effect), and second shot is when the 360 is on. If your LED"s are brighter than you like or dimmer than you like, then there are two surface mount resistors clearly and visibly connected to the LED pads that you can swap for higher/lower values to adjust the brightness. If your PSU catches fire, explodes, etc. then that means two things 1) it's not my fault, because you did this after reading the disclaimer, and 2) you did something wrong, that's why you usually check before completely reassembling the case isn't it?

That completes this guide, hope you learned something or it worked for you.

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