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RC18T2/B2 for sale $200 Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 04:01 PM

I am selling my Associated RC18-2, which I bought as a T2/B2 Factory Team kit. It has been run several times and it has been the focus of some modification. The quick specs that I will be selling it are as follows:

Motor: Castle Creations CM2042 4200Kv
ESC: Castle Creations Sidewinder
Servo: Blue Bird 376DMG+HS digital, 28 oz-in and 0.11 sec at 6V
Radio: NONE
Battery: NONE (negotiable)
Top Speed: 22 mph (as-is)

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Read on for more photos, and more details.

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motor mount holes are slightly enlarged due to it having a CM26 motor in it before

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I will be including all of these pinions:
- AE 10t
- AE 12t (installed)
- AE 13t
- Robinson Racing 20t

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I'll throw in the CM20 box too.

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Modifications:
- Hole drilled in the side of the belt enclosure to view pinion/spur mesh. a little off-center, but can be used. cover up with tape if you're worried about dirt getting in.
- Slipper clutch tensioner nut is replaced with ASC25216 M3 flanged locknuts. Also, I ground down one side of the slipper hubs, so the manual method for setting the slipper clutch cannot be used (it screws in further). I never found this important, it's an adjust by feel thing anyway.
- Battery strap screw replaced by one from my TC5R, this allows the battery strap to be raised slightly and thus accommodate thicker batteries.

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Compatible with NiMH and lipo batteries. The Reedy 1600 requires the posts to be lowered (tighten screws). The lipo is an Elite 2s 2200mAh 35C that I bought two years ago. Neither of these batteries will be included (unless you're willing to work something out).

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Hot Racing steel CV's to the wheels, and Hot Racing Onroad Springs (Chrome). Shocks filled with Mugen Seiki #600 oil, stock pistons were used.

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Modification:
- Battery strap latch drilled out, using a Traxxas Revo brake pad screw (TRA4978) to hold it in, and a spring from an Xmod 1st gen to hold it up. This is just as effective as the stock setup when adjusted properly, and there's no worry of stripping the latch. It will spin 360 degrees easily, and stay at the same height.

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Sidewinder handles more current than the Mamba Micro Pro. I debadged it so it looks cleaner. The Sidewinder will also handle 3s running better than the MMP, as the linear BEC has a larger heatsink to help it out.

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Modifications:
- Cut chassis underneath the motor due to there being a CM26 motor in there before, and I needed to remove material for it to sit level.
- Electric tape over the end of the CM20 motor so no dirt gets inside the bearing. I have no idea why Castle still does this, when it promotes these motors for ground use...closed endbells are much better. Tape was applied immediately after removing the motor from the box.
- Lip on the side of the chassis was removed for Sidewinder to fit properly.

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Modifications:
- Servo strap ground down slightly in order for the servo to fit properly.
- Shocks mounted upside down when the kit was built. Upside down shocks offer several benefits, the main ones I was interested in is getting the shafts farther away from rocks/dirt/etc. on the ground, and not having any air bubbles affecting damping at full compression.
- Servo horn drilled out to fit the servo's M3 spline screw.

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Modification:
- drilled out the outermost shock tower hole for 3mm LED, ended up not using it but it makes that hole useless unless you use an RC18-compatible M3 ballstud (which I'm not sure exist).

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I'm also including this HPI 1:10 scale wing. It was a test subject in many of my experiments, which is why there are so many holes in it, but I think it complements the look of the RC18-2 well. It may not be as functional as the kit wing, but I'm not racing...and the HPI wing is so soft, it will not crack or bend in a crash. I believe I drilled the lower holes (visible ones in this photo) a little too large, if you use a washer with the screws you can make use of the extra holes.

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Unfortunately there is some road rash from the street in front of my house, all four of the rims are affected. They vary in how badly they are scratched, but the tires are fine. Also, the rubbish stock unflanged wheel nuts were replaced with ASC25216, which have flanges.

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Mini-pin tires do have wear on them from being used on the asphalt a couple of times.

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A view of the underbody. Minor scratches

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A view under the rear of the chassis

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Looking at the rear skidplate/bumper

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Scratches on the battery side

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Scratches on the front bumper/skidplate

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Modification:
- Custom belt tensioner...I drilled a hole directly through the gearbox case to hold the tensioner shaft and bearing. The belt is very tight using the stock setup, this mod lowers the tension and frees up the drivetrain. The plastic support for the tensioner shaft was cut off, leaving just the 'base' to screw in to the bottom of the chassis. Looking underneath the chassis you can't tell the difference.

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I will include these following extras:
- Hot Racing 12mm aluminum hex adapters...use any 1:10 scale wheels/tires. This must be a v2 because these come with longer axle pins, when I bought some last year they did not. The brass washers go between the wheel and the wheel nut on the outside, it centers the 4mm 1:10 wheel on the 3mm 1:18 shaft.
- 3 stock plastic dogbones...one of them was sacrificed in an experiment. Not that you'd really need them, anyway.
- 4 stock stub axles...replaced by the CVA's. You could use them to convert the RC18-2 into RWD only, which is pretty fun to drive.
- Pinion gears listed above (9t, 13t, 20t)
- 66t spur gear...I bought this but it does not fit properly with the stock gear differentials. You probably have to upgrade to the ball diffs in order for this to work. It collides with the stock rear diff.
- "Experimented on" front gearbox case. It requires a new tensioner assembly (ASC21314) for use as a direct replacement due to my mod, but if you happen to damage the upper deck then that can be swapped in.

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Closeup of the servo horns (Airtronics, Hitec and XP) and pinions

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Manual and decal sheets. The only decals I used were the windows, headlights and an 'RC10.com' off the T2 sheet. The B2 sheet is untouched. The manual is in 'well used' condition.

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Painted T2 body. This one was the most used.

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Scratches on the roof

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Scratches on the rear

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Gouges from the body pins

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B2 body. This one was run, but I did not remove the overspray film.

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Modifications:
- Hole punched out to aid with motor cooling
- Rear of body cut out on motor side to aid with motor cooling

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Front body post hole. There will definately be scratches when the film is removed

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Slight road rash on the roof

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More extras: Unpainted wing and mud guards, and the narrow B2 front tires. The paint will not be included (unless you want it, it's empty), it's simply the can I used to paint the bodies...Pactra #RC264 Metallic Red.

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Closeup of the B2 wheels and tires. They are unused. I used Duratrax Tire Glue (thin) to glue all of the tires.

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Everything will fit in the retail box. I will include a wheel nut wrench, but I'm unsure if it's the exact one that came with the kit as I have gone through several 1:10 scale kits that came with more or less identical wrenches.

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Pros:
- Upgraded and assembled RC18T2/B2 kit
- Comes with a fast metal gear digital servo
- CM2042 motor will easily handle 3s for more speed
- Sidewinder ESC will handle any motor you can possibly fit in this chassis
- Many extras, including most of the stock parts that were replaced
- Stock M3 locknuts replaced with flanged locknuts
- I will also include a set of blue (front and rear, rather than just front) springs as well.
- Shocks don't leak

Cons:
- Steel hardware has some slight surface rust, a side effect of living in a particularly rainy town in Hawaii
- Wheels have road rash
- Some ballcups are a little tight out of the box
- Doesn't come with radio system, antenna straw, paint, and any hex wrenches.

Cost Breakdown:
- Associated RC18T2/B2 Factory Team kit: $120
- Castle Creations CM2042 4200Kv: $50
- Castle Creations Sidewinder: $70
- Blue Bird BMS-376DMG+HS digital servo: $16
- Hot Racing 1:10 scale aluminum wheel adapters: $12
- Hot Racing 4x steel CV's: $32
- Hot Racing chrome onroad spring set: $6
- Associated 10t pinion: $3 (top speed*: 18.49 mph)
- Associated 13t pinion: $3 (top speed*: 24.04 mph)
- Robinson Racing 20t pinion: $5 (top speed*: 36.99 mph)
- Associated 66t spur: $3
* Top speeds calculated with 60t spur and 7.4v battery

Total cost of this RC18T2/B2 and its extra parts was $320, not counting some consumed parts (ie. gearbox, wing, locknuts) and also not counting shipping I paid (probably another $40 or so). I am asking [b]$200 shipped[b], to the USA...actual shipping costs will be relatively high because I live in Hawaii, so I'd prefer to just ask a price and keep shipping as transparent as possible. Offers may be considered if they're reasonable, and if you want either the Reedy 1600 or the Elite lipo that can be negotiated as well.

If you have your own 3s battery that fits, then it's capable of 50+ mph! You can also head over to Castle's website and get a 9000Kv brushless motor for $15, or a CM26 motor for massive power! Belt drive eliminates torque steer, unlike in the original shaft-driven RC18.

If anyone would like more photos of something specific, or if there are questions don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for looking!
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 20 April 2011 - 12:18 PM

sold!
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