Digital.Complex: G&G ARP9 Super Rangers (Fire) - Digital.Complex

Jump to content

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

G&G ARP9 Super Rangers (Fire)

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,583
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 13 June 2019 - 05:03 PM

Seeing all the hype about this gun and actually handling one at Epower, I could not resist.

Posted Image
Picked up a Super Rangers version in "Fire" aka red. This was technically a second generation, after all the G&G ETU MOSFET failures of the original gun they apparently went and redesigned it. The PCB is much smaller and a different color I believe, but functionally they are identical (configurable Safe/Semi/Auto to Safe/Semi/3Burst). I removed the amplifier, it is the same type of soft plastic as my old GR16 Raider-L except all but the tip is painted black.

Posted Image
As I expected, the rail was a pain in the ass to remove. Two screws underneath and a very tight friction fit onto the barrel nut assembly. There is a 1.5mm set screw underneath the barrel nut assembly for anti-rotation purposes, that needs to pretty much be removed in order for the nut to turn.

Posted Image
Previous owner had a flashlight mounted on top of the rail for CQB, but unfortuantely did not know how to attach/remove it so it is completely stripped. I might need to dremel it off.

Posted Image
Bucking is not a G&G Green like previously mentioned, this may have been a Super Rangers rolling update. This is a new (to me) blue bucking with a split mound to stabilize the contact patch with two for more ocnsistent backspin application. I will see how it handles

Posted Image
G&G hopup unit included with the ARP is a rotary type, very similar in look and feel to Krytac units. Prometheus makes G&G and Krytac specific hopups so I'm not sure what the proprietary elements are, but it seems to do a good enough job so I will leave it in there for now.

Posted Image
Peeking inside and the hop arm can be opened up without removing its pivot pin.

More work on this gun will come later, saving up for a new gearbox and such for it. Until then, exterior mods only and they will be pretty basic.
0

#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,583
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 06 April 2020 - 03:47 PM

Did some stuff to the ARP last month

Posted Image
Fuse blew due to using the Rocket 16t neo motor probably

Posted Image
Bypassing the fuse, now the controller's magic smoke is the new fuse. lol

Posted Image
Aesthetic and functional improvements, basing this gun as much as I can off of UTG. I do enjoy their aesthetics but I do realize they are not the highest quality. I know that UTG did a red-anodized AEG buffer tube but that's long sold out and gone.

Posted Image
Tearing down to finally get in and change up the internals as G&G guns have known weak points.

Posted Image
Comparing the G&G G2 gearbox to a bone standard SRC V2 gearbox. Notice how there is a significant amount of reinforcement underneath the front of the cylinder head where cracks usually start. I think this affect magazine compatibility somewhat but with the 9mm style mags of the ARP9 I don't have to worry about this

Posted Image
It's kind of strange that G&G has the screws go in on the bottom shell

Posted Image
Cracking it open, looks pretty standard other than the ETU

Posted Image
Piston has one metal release tooth, the rest nylon. Noticeable wear on the teeth, but this gun has seen a lot of use.

As it turns out, the cylinder is actually ported but the 75% opening is facing down so it is not visible from the outside of the gun. I saw FPS gains with the unmodified gearbox using a 420x6.02mm barrel, so I'm not sure what that means as the calculated 'optimal' barrel length for an AOE-corrected 0.20g system is 371mm

Posted Image
This piston head is interesting, and I'm not sure what it's supposed to do...it looks like it's supposed to provide some sort of rotational movement to the air going underneath the O-ring, perhaps meant to increase velocity of that force. What I do know is that these openings are gigantic, which is bad for both piston head and shock absorption pad longevity.

Posted Image
Removing and bagging the stock parts to keep them together. I should have done this for all of the replicas I've done

Posted Image
G&G has these weirdly cut gear teeth faces. Almost all of them are beveled off on one side, reducing the amount of contact the gears make with each other. I suppose this is for lower rotational friction, but I don't like it and will be replacing it with an SHS set that makes full tooth contact.

Posted Image
Completely emptying out the gearbox.

Posted Image
Brake cleaner works wonders for cleaning off the stock grease, turns the gearbox shells nice and cold too.

Posted Image
First step is replacing the copper based bushings thata G&G still uses. I chose to go with 8mm bearings as this will be a higher speed build with a reasonable spring (M120).

More to come when I edit the photos.
0

#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,583
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 17 April 2020 - 04:01 PM

Decided to swap rails on the ARP for more real estate space. I also wanted to tuck the suppressor in more

Posted Image
G&G rail off

Posted Image
New rail on. This photo is fairly bad as it's mostly covered by the laser mount. I will take more photos later.

The polymer body makes threading on imperial barrel nuts easy. Highly recommended
0

#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,583
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 26 June 2020 - 09:02 AM

Photo op of the ARP9 in current ocnfiguration

Posted Image

Posted Image
0

#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

  • D.C Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • View blog
  • Group: Owner
  • Posts: 2,583
  • Joined: 18-October 05

Posted 27 June 2020 - 01:35 PM

Through some series of events I have obtained another G2 gearbox shell that I figured I'd put to good use by installing a Titan in it. The biggest downside to the built in G&G MOSFET unit is the fact that it's supposedly unreliable (has not proven true to me yet) and the fact that it happens to have an inline PCB unit that resides in the buffer tube that takes up space that could be used by the battery.

I might also see if I can fit in a slightly heavier spring in order to be able to better run this gun outdoors.

Posted Image
Chrono last time I was at the field on 2s lipo and 0.25g bbs. I'm not sure where that stray 264fps shot came from but I do remember shooting until the drum mag wouldn't feed anymore so it might have been due to that.

Either way, if we remove that clearly rogue reading and go with the ones on screen we are left with a high of 366.8 and low of 361.2 averaging 363fps. 1.53J is not bad for outdoors but perhaps we can go higher...and due to the dropping ROF as time went on, I believe the 2s lipo combined with OEM ETU has a part in restricting it.

Posted Image
G&G gearbox has the wire pegs that interfere with how thick the Titan's wires are, they need to be ground off.

Posted Image
Minimal work needs to be done to the lower shell, upper shell has shiny spots where the dremelwork was done. I also had to dremel off that ridge that sits above the trigger area as it was pressing quite hard into the foam.

Posted Image
Clamped the gearbox together with full screw torque for 24 hours. Disassembly showed no pinching or abrasion on the wires so I think we are good to go.

Posted Image
Testing fitment with selector plate and trigger, GCS is reporting good function so I think we are good to go.

Still waiting on bushings from Brill (he took almost a week to ship) so once those come in this project will be resumed.
0

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

2 User(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users