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Airsoft general projects

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 11:43 AM

First new thread of the new year. This will chronicle any general airsoft-related projects, whether it be repair or upgrade.

Let's kick it off with the repair of a green dot sight that came from ebay with the switch nub snapped off in the foam during shipping.

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Here it is as it came out of the box, the switch nub had broken off probably in transit and was stuck in the foam.

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Unscrewed the top half from the bottom, apparently in order to change the battery you probably have to re-zero the sight afterwards.

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The stock switch is a three-position SPDT sunk in some kind of silicone sealant. I attempted to dig it out of the metal housing as best I could indoors

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Trying to remove more of the silicone revealed that there is a PCB underneath that the switch is soldered to

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Still lots of that black silicone gunk stuck to it but I'm trying to free it from the wires

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Got it clean enough to see the traces, and thus can see what the circuit design is. Brightest setting has the switch be a direct passthrough, while dim setting has it go through a 20K resistor first.

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Soldering up a simple 2-position SPDT for a simple power switch. I am not intending on using this in any serious capacity, so a simple on-off green dot will be sufficient.

Another thing to comment on is how cheaply this is made, the battery is physically smashed in order to make contact, the only spring loaded contact is for the + terminal going from one PCB to another. The contact on the opposite half is glued to the housing, which came off when I tried to strip the wire attached to it.

I would not recommend this for any actual firearm usage, and frankly I am in awe that this design was even approved and works at all with this level of parts quality and craftsmanship.

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Sunk the switch in hot glue to test the operation. It works, surprisingly, as this switch has been sitting in a box outside ever since I finished high school 14 years ago. I sunk more hotglue into the recess afterwards to assist with strain relief

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Front view of the green dot sight. There is no evidence of modification looking from the front, and thankfully the cover still fits post-mod

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Looking from the back, the switch I replaced it with is slightly taller by a mm or so and as such the halves don't fit perfectly anymore, but that can be compensated for when zeroing the sight

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Green dot works now. A bit bright for nighttime use, but I have no intention of using it at night anyway.

The seller has chosen to send me another unit to replace the defective one, so now I have two other green dot sights to play with.
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 06 June 2019 - 08:35 AM

Review I posted for the ZCI High Torque Long motor (M-146)

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tl;dr: great price-performance, but may have fitment issues

Great torque due to solid construction and strong magnets, capable of pulling pretty much anything at 3s lipo. I've used this to pull M110, M120, and M155s on 2s with no problems. It performs similarly to a JG Blue high power, and if it does that means it can pull an M170 in a v2.5 gearbox (19t piston) on 3s.

However, these motors' endbells are longer by 1-2mm than standard motor cans. I measured against KWA high torque, Classic Army high torque, JG Blue super high power, and G&G 24k. The ZCI A2 motor grip may not be compatible, as I was not able to drop motor height low enough to mesh with an SHS bevel gear in a Retro Arms V2 gearbox. It does seem to mesh properly in the G&G ARP9 stock grip, and I currently have mine in a KWA TK.45 with the motor height adjustment grub screw completely bottomed out.

Highly recommended for great price-performance ratio. However, make sure your motor height adjustment has some room to drop to accommodate this slightly taller motor can.


Great motor, unfortunately with fitment issues. I do not recommend grinding down parts in order to make it fit, as the faces have to be completely level or else you are risking mechanical stress due to uneven pressure on the rear of the motor which is important in V2 gearbox design.
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 16 January 2020 - 01:54 PM

More motor issues. Recently purchased the EMG/Ares slim motors with appropriate AEG slim grips, and immediately ran into issues.

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Here's the packaging of both the slim motor and matching slim grip

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Measuring the Ares grip against a standard AEG A2 grip (top) and standard GBB A2 grip (bottom), very close to the GBB which is directly modeled after the real Colt (?) one.

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Very nearly the same width up top compared to the GBB grip, although clearly with the V2 gearbox hole pattern instead. Pretty neat

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Opening up the motor, the anatomy is a little different but looks good so far

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Disassembly, yanking off the D-type pinion because the motor felt a little weird to me.

Also, I ordered two of the standard 'High Torque' but Evike sent me one 'Super High Torque' instead...wanting to know the difference, I checked the EMG website:

High Torque - http://www.emgarms.com/86875/
18 turn, 22krpm

Super High Torque - http://www.emgarms.com/86874/
22 turn, 18krpm

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These motors are NOT Marui compatible, the shaft is far too long and will impact the ARL ratchet teeth on the bevel gear. I will need to grind down the shaft in order to make it work, which may possibly interfere with the shaft support guide which will need to be modified as well.

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Measured the bearing for the shaft support guide, it looks to be a 3x6x5mm plastic bushing which is a strange size for a bearing to be should I want to swap it out.

Will need to follow up on modifications if I am to use these in Marui systems. They do fit perfectly fine in the grips though, maybe a little too loosely but nothing I haven't seen before. I got these on sale but even still $32 is a lot for a motor that won't even fit into the replicas it claims to be designed for. Original advertised price is $39 for the High Torque and $52 for the Super High Torque, that is absurd.

The Ares grips are alright on the other hand, they mimic the size of the M16A2 grips more closely than standard AEGs do, but the heatsink/motor plate on the bottom appears to be made of metal yet is nearly weightless so I have to question how strong it is.
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