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Custom Fight Sticks formerly "gaming sticks" Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:40 PM

this is so I don't confuse the shit out of me.

all pcb's are chImps (x4, $30 each)

Sho
Stick ($20): Myoungshin (black)
Buttons (x9, $2 each): Sanwa OBSF-30 (black)
USB passthrough ($8)
TOTAL: $76

Preston
Stick ($20): Myoungshin (green)

Cat Sue
Stick ($20): Myoungshin (green)
Buttons (x3, $2 each): Crown (black)
USB jack ($3)
TOTAL: $59

Steve
Buttons (x2, $4 each): Seimitsu PS-14-KN
USB passthrough ($8)
TOTAL: $46

doodoo gavin
Buttons (x4): Sanwa OBSF-30 (black)

edit: for reference
http://slagcoin.com/...ick/layout.html
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 11:40 PM

'thin' plexi: 2.16 mm
fat plexi: 5.15 mm
aluminum bracket: 3.15 mm thick
Myoungshin lip: 16.13 mm (~14mm total buffer space, ~8.82mm spacer after plexi

since the Sanwa buttons seem to only be able to accomodate 3.65 mm at the greatest, I'm gonna use the thin upper layer to actually snap shit into and then the lower layer. currently working on a diagram, taking 9000 hours in mspaint tho
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 05 February 2010 - 08:34 PM

ok, got inspiration on the design for my stick graphic. I attached both the wallpaper and the wip psd file.

http://img12.yfrog.c...5069221144.png/

edit: attached diagram

Attached File(s)


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#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 10:04 AM

recently got a new inspiration for my stick project, as these photos will no doubt show.

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using the shell of my last Xbox 360 to die

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pulled the cage off the top using my reflow heater at 200°C

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strangely, the melt-down holding posts kept their shape despite the cage being pulled off

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tentative stick setup

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using my old stick topper as a template

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Dremel is the quick and dirty way to get the rough shape. (:

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quick look of the nonflat underside. (had to kill time while I charged the Dremel's battery...)

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the motherboard cage will also be used for something. It will be both the mount for the fan (no more sweaty hands) and also a weight to give the stick some heft so it doesn't move during intense gaming.

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stainless steel hardware, the Xbox shell is ready to accept the parts

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tried using nuts to space out the stick, but ended up using the rocker bushings from my Revo VXL.

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the parts mounted up. I just have to countersink the stick screw holes before it's final.

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and a photo of the Xbox 360 controller I will be cannibalizing for this project. :D
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#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 01:01 PM

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cutting out the cage for the buttons to pass through

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some quick work with my Dremel

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Start/Select buttons on the side

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looking from behind

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rounding out the ethernet/usb port on the back for the stick's USB jack

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test fitting the jack

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prototype fitting. I eventually moved the tab to be on the outside of the cage.

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mounting the Xbox360 controller

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routing out the rear of the case to make room for the USB jack

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side view of the clearance

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end result!

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pulling off the shield on the wireless card

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I removed most of the chips with my reflow gun, just in case hooking up voltage straight to the LEDs will cause problems

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testing the current draw of the fans at a lower voltage

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for future reference, the spacer between the upper shell and the cage

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testing with two green 8mm LEDs and the fans hooked up to USB power!

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the light leaking out from under the top

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completely dark shot, light is pretty even surprisingly

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looking inside through the cage

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the ChImp board

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using a 4s lipo balance tap for the stick button harness

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soldering to the stick

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using wingnuts for easy access for the interior PCBs

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far view of the innards

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USB power

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with the shell almost closed

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start/select buttons on the side

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low-light photo, this really brings out the LED lighting I think.
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#6 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 11:13 AM

Finished wiring up the buttons to the ChImp last night, it works on PC!

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All I have to do now is wire it up to the Xbox 360 controller already mounted inside, and it will be fully functional!
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#7 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 22 July 2017 - 11:50 AM

Hard to believe my 360stick was going for nearly six years. It's about time to replace it unfortunately, this time with a true multiplatform pcb as the original ChImp does not support Xbone or PS4.

http://awignall.blog...stick-f300.html

Adam Wignall has a pretty good info dump on the stick I decided to get, the Mayflash F300. Despite being a company that seems to sell knockoff components their fight sticks have been cited as decent quality and easy to modify, so sign me up I guess.

Photos of my own build will commence shortly.
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#8 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 August 2017 - 12:17 PM

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Looking at the old 360stick. It was still working, but dropping connection randomly throughout some matches we had. It was time to upgrade

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Sanwa JLF stick with swapped Cherry microswitches. The Cherry switches have a slightly faster engage, and are also much much quieter and softer than the stock Omron ones. I ride the gate when I play so being able to feel when the switches activate has no impact on me whatsoever.

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I had installed The Link onto the JLF. It makes it so that the top of the joystick has a quick release in order to be able to store the stick flat. I have yet to come up with a storage solution, but this may be a good thing as I have a proposed buyer for this stick in stock form so I'll be able to upgrade to the slightly larger and more customizable F500.

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Looking closer at the F300. This is the Revision 1.1 which has the controller USB passthrough port on the rear rather than the front.

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Looking underneath the F300 and you see that the bottom plate is a sheet steel piece with four very sturdy and grippy rubber feet. I considered replacing it with plexiglass but I found out later that this plate is the source of 90% of the stick's weight.

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Stock wiring. I'm honestly surprised that the stick switches are soldered on when they use quick disconnects for the pushbuttons. The joystick mounting plate is fully compatible with Sanwa ones (and probably others).

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Removing the stock joystick

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Surprise surprise, it's a knockoff Sanwa JLF. If I had known that I could have saved myself a lot of money and just purchased the stiffer spring and oversized actuator.

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Aside from some general structure differences they are almost direct swaps. The knockoff stick has tapped screwholes to secure the bottom plate whereas the genuine JLF relies solely on the snap clips.

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After soldering the wires to the Cherry microswitches, they can be put back into the JLF body.

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Let's rock

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Knowing that the joystick was a straight JLF clone, it doesn't surprise me that the pushbuttons were clones of the Sanwa OBS-30s. They were fully compatible and interchangeable, the only functional difference in them was that instead of the great Sanwa switch they had their own terribly mushy one. Unfortunately, the microswitch is almost the sole dictator in the feel of the pushbutton and as a result they will go unused. However, if you do like their bright blue you can swap in the Sanwa SW-68 to restore the feeling of a genuine piece.

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You may have noticed on the outsides of the previous photo was a part I wanted to try out, which are Cherry MX based pushbutton switches. Unfortunately they do not fit into the stock pushbutton plungers, and as a result they need their own custom plungers. I got some translucent grey plungers to go with my MX Gray switches (80g tactile silent).

Still more updates coming in the future...
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#9 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 21 August 2017 - 12:58 PM

New stick came in, so I will get to work on that as soon as I am able this week. Also, I was searching through my other memory card and I found more photos I took of the initial build process of the JLF.

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looking at the stock JLF with the gate assembly removed

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Removed the microswitch assembly and shaft. You can see The Link shaft in the back that will replace the stock Sanwa part

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Replaced the extremely stiff and noisy Omron microswitches with Cherry ones leftover from my IIDX controller projects from a few years back.

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Replacing the restrictor plate, with the swapped in octagonal gate

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Final closeup of the finished product, with the Cherry microswitches, The Link shaft and the aluminum bat top.
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