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Ares G36K

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 27 August 2020 - 05:21 PM

Working on a G36 that is not currently functional, its owner says that it jammed up and got hot.

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Received the guts of the AEG in a bag, owner attempted a disassembly

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Removing the gearbox from the bag, it looks to be the Ares version of G36 with electric blowback. Its v3 gearbox is unique on the outside, mainly due to a feature that I don't think was important (ARL disengage lever).

As it turns out, major components for that function are physically broken, so I will be removing all related levers and springs to disable it but simplify the outside of the gearbox.

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Discovered that the main problem that the gearbox had was that the piston head exploded and seized itself in the cylinder. The motor did not have enough torque to unjam itself, which is why the symptoms of 'doesn't shoot just gets hot' makes sense.

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You can probably see it in the previous photo but these two parts of the piston head were jammed in the cylinder head air hole

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Half of the piston head remains intact. The end of the piston is kind of eaten up from the jam so we'll be replacing it as well

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Selector plate up top, and ARL disengage lever below. The bump on the left side of the lever interfaces with another series of push bars but again one of them broke in a critical area so the whole system will be removed. It's not necessary with braking type MOSFETs anyway.

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Dumped out the contents of the gearbox and cleaned them

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Minor chatter marks and wear on the gears, majority of the gears are straight steel so I will be reusing them.

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Cleaning off all the grease from the cylinder head, and will be gluing on a neoprene shock absorber/spacer to correct angle of engagement

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Undoing the set screw allows the hop unit to come out. Very bizarre design in my opinion, I liked the PKP/M60 design better.

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Push in and twist to get the captured tensioner off

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Completely taken apart. I'm not sure what happened but the Ares packing was stuck to both the barrel and hop chamber, I was unable to wiggle out the barrel/packing so I was forced to yank and tear it in order to remove it. The packing was to be replaced anyway so it's no big deal.

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a hair over 13-3/4" means a 350mm inner barrel. I looked over the system and the full cylinder does not make sense. The barrel is shorter than the 14.5" M4A1 yet uses a full port where the M4 uses a 3/4? If I swap in a 3/4 ported cylinder the AEG will probably be a lot quieter. I will build it like that and see what the end results are like.

Replacement and upgrade parts were ordered, now it's a waiting game until they come in.
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 02 September 2020 - 06:12 PM

Parts are in, and the gun is almost able to be put back together.

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ZCI neo magnet motor, SHS piston combo, FLT 7mm bushings, and Guarder SP130 spring

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Disassembling the piston assembly for work. They use a substance that is either a very sticky grease or a non-hardening glue on the piston bearing screw, I'll leave it in and loctite it later during reassembly. The screw is shorter than I'd like, it looks like the maximum length is the standard M3x15mm countersunk flat machine screw.

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Milling flash left inside the O-ring race. If this isn't removed the O-ring will likely be damaged

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Flash removed, piston head is now ready to be used

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Piston rack glued in, piston head screwed in with loctite. End weight is 27.2g

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JB welded in the bushings to immobalize them and strengthen the gearbox. FLT bushings are great since the surface on the outside of the bushing is left coarse to aid adhesion.

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Here's the stock motor assembly, it was heatshrunk to hold in the wires. Convenient for inserting into the AEG shell, but not so great for heat dispersion. Also due to it being below the gearbox a lot of the lubricant has leaked down into it and pooled under the wrap around the motor. It shouldn't hurt anything, but you don't want that getting on the brushes and commutator.

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Cut down the side with a razor blade to remove the wrap

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All the oil will have to be cleaned off of the frame

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Cleaned up and motor is removed. You don't have to unscrew the frame if you fight with the spring a bit, it sits over a centering collar around the hole where the pinion pokes through

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Noticed a bunch of brush dust on the stock motor. Not that it matters much anymore, new motor will be going in

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Size comparison of the motors, they are near identical.

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ZCI motor going into the motor cage. This should make it simple to shim, never tried this before - the MP5K v3 gearbox is cageless.

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Creating a new harness that will hook into the Warfet. Matched the original harness best I could

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There was some bad news that I notified the owner about, I did not catch this during the initial inspection. There was damage to the bevel gear's bevel, likely caused when the piston jammed and the drivetrain halted immediately.

It's not severe damage and I think under lower-stress circumstances the gear is usuable, but with the SP130 spring I do not want to reuse it.

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SHS 16:1 set is going in, as I did not have any 18:1 on hand. I might have to drop down the spring to SP120 with this set but we shall see what happens. This gearbox has a very good QSC system so that can be done at any time.

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Showing the two different gearsets pre-shimming

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Closeup after shimming is completed

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I will test the feeding with some midcaps, if they don't feed properly then I'll add the tappet delayer to the sector gear like how the stock Ares sector did.

Also notice the 3/4 ported cylinder which more closely matches the stock barrel length with 0.25g bbs. The full cylinder is overvolumed, and required something ridiculous like 0.45g to be properly volumed assuming the stock barrel is 6.08mm bore. This slightly undervolumes the system, which means the end result should be a fairly quiet muzzle report.

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Secured the motor cage to the gearbox for a test, and glad to say the gearbox ran smooth. Next session will be putting in the rest of the parts and hopefully test firing the gun to measure its performance.

I do not have the G&G green packing in yet, so I will probably have to substitute something else. I have a bunch of stock packings that I will use for now.
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 04 September 2020 - 05:26 PM

Minor work done assembling the gearbox back together and fitting it back into the model body.

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Inserted the trigger plate, this thing basically converts the forward motion from the trigger into lateral movement for the microswitch plunger.

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The opening for the microswitch is not very secure, which might be a good thing. You can fudge in a microswitch that is off spec if you have to. No alingment pegs either so anything with a plunger in the same area will work.

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Bolted back on that lower assembly to hold the switch in, and reattached the mechanical safety on the left with a spring.

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View from the other side, I reattached the selector plate and proper function of the cutoff lever was observed

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Wiring up the motor, I will not be replacing the shrink wrap as that does not allow for maximum heat dissipation

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Routing the wires forward

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Motor plate at the bottom. You can adjust motor height even with the cover attached, that is great

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Guarder SP130 spring next to the stock spring. Stock spring is approximately 163mm long with 1.44mm thick wire, the SP130 is approximately 173mm long with 1.59mm thick wire.

I tested cycling on 2s with the Warfet on the stock spring to ensure proper operation, which it passed. I then put in the SP130 spring and tested operation and it passed again, there was no slowdown of cycling due to the motor being strained.

The G&G Green packings aren't in yet, but I will chrono the gun with a different rubber in a couple of days and we shall see if any more work needs to be done.
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#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 September 2020 - 05:38 PM

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I put on a cheap SHS packing to test the G36 with just for the sake of chronoing the gun.

Unfortunately, there might be some compression issues with this gun as it was shooting around 340-360fps on 0.25g. I will try and swap packings to see if it's just a nozzle leak, otherwise I'll have to check the compression again.

First I might try putting in a 300mm inner barrel to see if this is just a voluming thing and go from there...although I doubt that's the problem.
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#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 06:23 PM

Made some changes

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Changed the cylinder back to the stock full one, there was a slight concern for air leak around the stock cylinder head with the other cylinder. Stock components worked better and will provide joule creep opportunity should they want to use heavier bbs in a support weapon role.

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Reassembling the gearbox with the motor wires on the left side of the gearbox to avoid contact with the sliding faux bolt

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Photo of the teflon tape wrap on the inner barrel to stabilize it in the outer barrel

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Chrono results look great now.

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Going around 430fps with 0.25g, right around 2.15J. Here we see an FPS variance of 7.9fps, 1.86%.

Excellent results, hope to get this rifle back to the client this weekend.
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