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G&G ARP9 Super Rangers (Fire)

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 13 June 2019 - 05:03 PM

Seeing all the hype about this gun and actually handling one at Epower, I could not resist.

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Picked up a Super Rangers version in "Fire" aka red. This was technically a second generation, after all the G&G ETU MOSFET failures of the original gun they apparently went and redesigned it. The PCB is much smaller and a different color I believe, but functionally they are identical (configurable Safe/Semi/Auto to Safe/Semi/3Burst). I removed the amplifier, it is the same type of soft plastic as my old GR16 Raider-L except all but the tip is painted black.

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As I expected, the rail was a pain in the ass to remove. Two screws underneath and a very tight friction fit onto the barrel nut assembly. There is a 1.5mm set screw underneath the barrel nut assembly for anti-rotation purposes, that needs to pretty much be removed in order for the nut to turn.

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Previous owner had a flashlight mounted on top of the rail for CQB, but unfortuantely did not know how to attach/remove it so it is completely stripped. I might need to dremel it off.

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Bucking is not a G&G Green like previously mentioned, this may have been a Super Rangers rolling update. This is a new (to me) blue bucking with a split mound to stabilize the contact patch with two for more ocnsistent backspin application. I will see how it handles

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G&G hopup unit included with the ARP is a rotary type, very similar in look and feel to Krytac units. Prometheus makes G&G and Krytac specific hopups so I'm not sure what the proprietary elements are, but it seems to do a good enough job so I will leave it in there for now.

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Peeking inside and the hop arm can be opened up without removing its pivot pin.

More work on this gun will come later, saving up for a new gearbox and such for it. Until then, exterior mods only and they will be pretty basic.
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 03:47 PM

Did some stuff to the ARP last month

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Fuse blew due to using the Rocket 16t neo motor probably

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Bypassing the fuse, now the controller's magic smoke is the new fuse. lol

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Aesthetic and functional improvements, basing this gun as much as I can off of UTG. I do enjoy their aesthetics but I do realize they are not the highest quality. I know that UTG did a red-anodized AEG buffer tube but that's long sold out and gone.

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Tearing down to finally get in and change up the internals as G&G guns have known weak points.

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Comparing the G&G G2 gearbox to a bone standard SRC V2 gearbox. Notice how there is a significant amount of reinforcement underneath the front of the cylinder head where cracks usually start. I think this affect magazine compatibility somewhat but with the 9mm style mags of the ARP9 I don't have to worry about this

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It's kind of strange that G&G has the screws go in on the bottom shell

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Cracking it open, looks pretty standard other than the ETU

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Piston has one metal release tooth, the rest nylon. Noticeable wear on the teeth, but this gun has seen a lot of use.

As it turns out, the cylinder is actually ported but the 75% opening is facing down so it is not visible from the outside of the gun. I saw FPS gains with the unmodified gearbox using a 420x6.02mm barrel, so I'm not sure what that means as the calculated 'optimal' barrel length for an AOE-corrected 0.20g system is 371mm

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This piston head is interesting, and I'm not sure what it's supposed to do...it looks like it's supposed to provide some sort of rotational movement to the air going underneath the O-ring, perhaps meant to increase velocity of that force. What I do know is that these openings are gigantic, which is bad for both piston head and shock absorption pad longevity.

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Removing and bagging the stock parts to keep them together. I should have done this for all of the replicas I've done

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G&G has these weirdly cut gear teeth faces. Almost all of them are beveled off on one side, reducing the amount of contact the gears make with each other. I suppose this is for lower rotational friction, but I don't like it and will be replacing it with an SHS set that makes full tooth contact.

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Completely emptying out the gearbox.

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Brake cleaner works wonders for cleaning off the stock grease, turns the gearbox shells nice and cold too.

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First step is replacing the copper based bushings thata G&G still uses. I chose to go with 8mm bearings as this will be a higher speed build with a reasonable spring (M120).

More to come when I edit the photos.
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 17 April 2020 - 04:01 PM

Decided to swap rails on the ARP for more real estate space. I also wanted to tuck the suppressor in more

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G&G rail off

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New rail on. This photo is fairly bad as it's mostly covered by the laser mount. I will take more photos later.

The polymer body makes threading on imperial barrel nuts easy. Highly recommended
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#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 26 June 2020 - 09:02 AM

Photo op of the ARP9 in current ocnfiguration

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#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 27 June 2020 - 01:35 PM

Through some series of events I have obtained another G2 gearbox shell that I figured I'd put to good use by installing a Titan in it. The biggest downside to the built in G&G MOSFET unit is the fact that it's supposedly unreliable (has not proven true to me yet) and the fact that it happens to have an inline PCB unit that resides in the buffer tube that takes up space that could be used by the battery.

I might also see if I can fit in a slightly heavier spring in order to be able to better run this gun outdoors.

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Chrono last time I was at the field on 2s lipo and 0.25g bbs. I'm not sure where that stray 264fps shot came from but I do remember shooting until the drum mag wouldn't feed anymore so it might have been due to that.

Either way, if we remove that clearly rogue reading and go with the ones on screen we are left with a high of 366.8 and low of 361.2 averaging 363fps. 1.53J is not bad for outdoors but perhaps we can go higher...and due to the dropping ROF as time went on, I believe the 2s lipo combined with OEM ETU has a part in restricting it.

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G&G gearbox has the wire pegs that interfere with how thick the Titan's wires are, they need to be ground off.

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Minimal work needs to be done to the lower shell, upper shell has shiny spots where the dremelwork was done. I also had to dremel off that ridge that sits above the trigger area as it was pressing quite hard into the foam.

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Clamped the gearbox together with full screw torque for 24 hours. Disassembly showed no pinching or abrasion on the wires so I think we are good to go.

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Testing fitment with selector plate and trigger, GCS is reporting good function so I think we are good to go.

Still waiting on bushings from Brill (he took almost a week to ship) so once those come in this project will be resumed.
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#6 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 04:50 PM

Continued work on this project earlier this month after the parts arrived but have not had a chance to upload pics until now.

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Cleaned out the gearbox shells with engine degreaser, you can see the areas of modification on the upper shell (bottom in the pic)

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JB Welding the Retro Arms bushings in place. These have also been degreased in order to aid adhesion

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24 hours later the welds are dry

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Outside view of the bushings. They lie flush against the exterior of the gearbox, very good for maximizing selector plate compatibility.

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Small snag I ran into while building this is that I noticed that there is internal reinforcement on the G2 gearbox. I have not noticed this before, although I have noticed that the G2 tappet plates have a notch like how the Lonex ones do.

I will either have to cut a tappet plate to fit or find another G&G tappet plate specific to the G2 gearbox...weighing my options right now.
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#7 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 02 October 2020 - 04:54 PM

I was running the ARP9 last game and I forgot that I spec'd the build for a 2s and put a 3s in and hit PME.

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Piston head is locked back all the way to the rear

I wasn't brave enough to open up the gearbox to see what position it jammed in, so I just used a screwdriver to unstick the ARL through the motor hole. I must have ran four or five bursts of full auto before it locked up so it might be right on the edge of premature engagement.

Calculations show that a fully charged 3s lipo on the 16t Rocket motor with 13:1 gears means a ROF in excess of 45rps. This is not surprising for a full stroke SSG with what I don't think was a particularly lightweight piston on an SP120.

After unsticking the system, I ran a few shots on 2s and was surprised to hear that there was no lasting damage. Fortunately the sector gear just skipped a tooth on the piston rather than having a destructive collision like on an earlier experiment I did in a Retro Arms gearbox. Ran through a dozen or so semiauto shots and the gearbox did not sound any different than before which is good. This gives me more time to complete the Titan-equipped gearbox that will be going into the gun, lol
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#8 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 04 December 2020 - 06:11 PM

Finally got a chance to build the Titan-powered gearbox that will probably be the final build for this AEG.

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Pulling out the original gearbox built in order to put it in the G&G Mk18 as the crane stock on it means the external controller part can sit in the buffer tube and not reduce the available battery space.

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One last look at the gearbox installed

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Gearbox is free

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Roughing up the surface of a neoprene shock absorber for CA glue adhesion

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Checking spacing, I used a thinner shock absorber for this build with the parts I decided to use.

SHS/GMT steel rack piston
SHS nylon piston head (no bearing)
SHS v2 cylinder head

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Due to this Siegetek gearset being bought secondhand, its original owner had shortstroked a tooth without disclosing so. 14:1 is a good ratio for the ARP, and this Prometheus MS135SP spring will allow for very snappy cycling at higher speeds, with the motor going in we are expecting over 30rps on 3s lipo.

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After reassembling the gearbox and running checks on the Titan settings, I noticed that it was having severe trouble sensing the selector plate position. I've tried multiple selector plates from different companies (SHS, G&G, Lonex, Retro Arms) and they could all sense 'Safe' but not 'Semi' or 'Auto'.

Upon closer inspection on the Titan board, one of the optical sensors is chipped off. This is a bit devastating, and considering that this was the Titan I won on ebay for cheap because it had a broken motor connector it does not surprise me that someone careless enough to break off a motor connector would not treat the main board with enough care to ensure the integrity of its SMD components. I'll contact Gate to see what my options are, if they are nice to me I might be able to figure out the part they used and replace it myself.

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The motor going in is a Tienly GT-30000, which is a 20t motor with very powerful magnets.

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After replacing the broken Titan with another one I had on hand, I was able to cycle the gearbox and take some semiauto measurements. Unfortunately, the broken Titan is an Advanced model and the last working one I had on hand is a Basic so I am unable to take readings off of the ETU itself.

My dying power analyzer display croaks out 16.0A peak on semiauto fire. Much higher than average but not quite as high as I was expecting to be honest, the shortstroke drops the peak load even if it is only 1 tooth.

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Hop unit going in is a Prometheus unit, with a G&G green packing to match. I initially wanted to put in a Maple Leaf 70° but it does not fit in the Prometheus chamber due to the sealing ribs for lower quality chambers.

Inner barrel going in is a 200x6.08mm GHK brass barrel from the stock G5. GHK hop chambers use AEG cut barrels.

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Chrono results in not as high FPS as I feared. Even with the tiny barrel it can crank out 0.20g right at 415fps for a 1.6J AEG which will punch surprisingly hard outdoors.

Side effect of the shorter inner barrel and overvolumed system means that the ARP is still extremely loud.

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Chrono results for the targeted 0.25g for balanced outdoors play shows the joule creep as expected from the system. We are averaging just over 370fps with 0.25g, a 7.7fps differential meaning 2.09% FPS variance. It's a lot higher than it was before, I will actually use this in a game this weekend so we'll see if the spring settles in afterwards.

The AEG is a bit noisier than I was expecting as well, I don't think it's with the shim job so I might just have to regreaase the gears as I am using solid steel Retro Arms bushings and those do not 'hold' grease and require a film from the PTFE to stay quiet.
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