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#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 01:14 AM

not really a project per se, but I'm gonna be leaving links and stuff that I find useful for the xbox360 repairing/modding endeavors I plan on taking.

http://www.biline.ca/360_mod.htm
I didn't even know Biline did games, I just knew about them since that guy's been doing stuff for RC years ago

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=666249
xbox-scene: toaster oven

http://forums.xbox-s...pic=629455&st=0
xbox-scene: last ditch resort

http://www.assembler...ead.php?t=23195
assembler: baked

http://forums.xbox-e...8&t=131&start=0
x-ex: heatgunning method

http://xbox-experts....owtoreflowyour3
x-ex: ghetto reflow

http://xbox-experts....heultimatexbox3
x-ex: ultimate reflow tut

http://xbox-experts....p?n=heatgunisol
x-ex: heatgunning tut
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 06:55 PM

okay so I think I'm gonna invest in a reflow station. Even if it doesn't fix the 360's it will be a good investment considering the things I work on and do in my free time.

anyway, here's my choices:

http://www.amazon.co...d=2E3ZXEWV3XKXB
Aoyue 968: $159
* 3 in 1 repairing station the combines Hot Air Rework Gun with a Soldering Iron and a Smoke Absorber
* Maintains a constant set temperature when the set and the value is reached
* Digital display of actual and set temperature with touch control on the front panel
* Built in Air Flow gauge and knob adjustment for the air flow
* Auto cool-off process that leaves the blower on until the nozzle is cool

http://www.amazon.co...d=2E3ZXEWV3XKXB
Aoyue 850A: $93
* 500 watt metal heater
* Temperature range 100-550 C (212-1022 F)
* Air Flow 23L/min (max)
* Quiet large volume air pump
* Fast rising, accurate, stable temperature

http://www.amazon.co...d=2E3ZXEWV3XKXB
Aoyue A8032A++: $89
* Portable Hot Air
* Digital Readout for Temperature and Airflow
* Hand Held Device
* Great for Field Repairs
(I think this is just one for quick jobs, might as well get the 850A I think)

http://www.amazon.co...6865964&sr=1-24
Aoyue 908: $139
* 450 Watt Hot Air Rework Gun
* 60 Watt soldering Iron
* 24 volt output to prevent circuit damage from the iron
* Auto sleep mode to save energy and increase equipment life

http://www.amazon.co...d=2E3ZXEWV3XKXB
Aoyue #4141 nozzle: $16
(doesn't matter which one I get, I'll need this)
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 01:39 PM

http://forums.llamma...t=25233#p123209
Llamma: heat profile for 360

http://forums.llamma...t=25902#p128452
Lamma: heat profile for PS3

http://www.koolance....?product_id=327
Koolance: hmmmm...
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#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 28 December 2009 - 03:15 PM

http://forums.xbox-e...c.php?f=8&t=210
for Scott's Xbox

http://forums.xbox-e...8&t=131&start=0
reworking tips
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#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 10 January 2010 - 12:21 PM

box 1: half a box
this was the test run, we tested the reflow procedure on the GPU. However, we didn't have any way to test it as this was the box without the dvd drive and the heatsinks were at home anyway. nothing exploded and the solder balls did get a bit shinier, so it was good.

box 2: E17/0101 -> E10/0022 (Xenon/Zephyr)
the first 'real' box we tried reflowing, didn't work but then again it has a lame ass error, I don't think we'll be able to fix this one without reballing as a short is much more difficult to flow properly than a cold solder joint. Dunno if we can fix this one, although since I know exactly what the problem is I'll hang on to it.

box 3: E18/0102 -> fix (Xenon/Zephyr)
success. reflowed both GPU and CPU (in that order) according to the heat profile I found, and it works. used socket head M5x10 screws, so had to drill out the cage so the motherboard could fit back in. Been playing Forza 3 for two hours and Tekken 6 for an hour with no problems. The fans are louder than I remember but 1. the Arctic Silver 5 TIM has yet to break in and 2. did some modifications with the air ducting, forcing more over the GPU heatsink (smaller area). thanks to Steve for holding the air gun, we really need to build a stand lol.

still got two more boxes to try, a Falcon and a Jasper (Scott's).
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#6 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 07:15 PM

Time for a thread necromancy! I recently acquired a working Jasper model Xbox 360, and since the case and internals were in terribly filthy condition I figured it would make a good contender for a cleanup and to be stuck in a different case.

No real progress yet, just getting the thing open and inspecting the internals was the first step.

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Starting to open up the case, which was filthy and had a large unsightly sticker on the other side

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I haven't worked on original model 360s in awhile, but it's like riding a bike. Pop off the six lighter colored screws that aren't next to a port

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Ugh

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I'm not sure how much life there is left in this console, but it's worth a try.

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You can even see where the fan shroud goes...

There's a long way to go in this project, but on the upside I do have a lot of extra parts that I'll need for this project. High up on my list is the original xb360 CPU heatsinks, which are supposedly better.

Updates come as they happen, which may not be all that quick due to Monster Hunter 4 Ultimate taking up most of my free time these days...
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#7 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 11 March 2015 - 06:19 PM

I obtained a broken Xbox360 slim (single red LED blinking, 0100 error code) and since I've never torn one of these apart before, I got straight to it

Sorry about the confusion putting everything in one thread, but I figured the internals are different enough to be able to tell at a glance which project I'm working on.

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Pry off the top grate carefully

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Remove the HDD cover, and remove the other grate and the plastic

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Up top again, underneath the plastic there's the wifi adapter on USB. I wonder if this can be used on a pc?

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One screw to remove.

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The trim needs to be removed by undoing all of these tabs, this one's not so hard

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The bottom one on the other hand is a pain in the ass because of that one tiny clip that you can't fit a screwdriver in

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The shell is held together with the same type of clamps, undo all four of them to split it open. The one next to the optical audio port is the most difficult to get to

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Remove all the black screws to free the cage from the top, just like in the original xb360

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Now the guts finally have freedom

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The updated RoL and controller antenna, along with a ribbon cable to the front panel for the touch-sensitive power and eject buttons

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Ribbon cable along the front panel

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Adorable SATA cables

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Undo and remove the HDD connector

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Undo and remove the DVD drive

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Remove that screw that's missing in the photo

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Then remove another screw that's missing (oddly shaped hole by the optical audio port)

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Now you can remove the black plastic piece

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Undo two screws and the heatsink fan comes off. Interestingly enough this is the only fan in the unit, and it's an exhaust fan.

Looking around the internet leads me to believe that either the C/GPU or southbridge needs reflowing. One of these days I'll fire up the skillet and give it a shot, but until then this is taking a backseat to Monster Hunter 4U ^^;
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#8 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 18 December 2015 - 04:46 PM

Recently started to revisit this project. I tested out the dirty Xbox with the dual cpu heatsink design, and it seems to be working okay. My Arctic Silver 5 seems to have dried out, but fortunately I have some Noctua NT-H1 that I will use once I finalize the project.

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Here's the Xbox before any modifications, cleaned up best I could

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Popping off the X-clamps

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GPU heatsink off

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Still dusty underneath the heatsink, how the hell

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Use a 1/4" socket to remove the pegs

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I had to borrow the pegs because the CPU heatsink I took off from an old board I had done the M4 bolt mod with.

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Testing out the Xbox, it reads MW3 and BOII so I'll be going on to the next portion...

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This DVD drive keeps sticking. I wouldn't be surprised if it needs a ton of grease judging by the state of the rest of the Xbox.

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Cracking it open and it is indeed dusty

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Here's another shot from the top. Cleaning it up is a job for another day.
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#9 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 22 December 2015 - 05:21 PM

Amidst the other Xbox project, I re-cracked open the xbslim to have another look inside.

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Looking down on the cage

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While taking it apart, I noticed something extremely interesting...

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The spacing on the heatsink is exactly the same as the original xb360.

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Once out of the cage, there was indeed another X-clamp.

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Pop it off with similar technique as before

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Then I found the real issue on what had happened to this xbox. I'm guessing moisture dripped in through the fan grate and corroded everything around that RAM chip.

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Cleaned off all the gunk on the CPU as best I could, this is what it looks like

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For shits and giggles, here's the original Xenon GPU heatsink on the Xbslim's processor.

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The CPU heatsinks all fit as well, just not the Mk.II GPU heatsink as the heatpipe contacts something on the motherboard regardless of which direction you put it on.

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Here's the Xbslim's heatsink on an original model board. If you shaved off all the fins on the CPU side, and some fins over where the yellow capacitor is, then you can use it on this model Xbox as well.

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Here's a shot with all revisions of XB360 heatsinks that Microsoft has distributed.

Due to the fact that the Xslim's problems were caused by water damage, I am no longer interested in fixing it up. Perhaps I will make use of its other internals, or maybe even use the shell as the basis of a fighting stick again.
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#10 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 January 2016 - 03:26 PM

Small update on the project, I figured it would be best to stick the Xbox in the PC case inside of its own cage. This removes the need for me to drill through two walls in order to mount the motherboard, and keeping the distance consistent through the varying levels on the PC rear.

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Ripping out the floppy drive cage in order to have enough room in order to be able to mount the XB360 chassis.

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Perfect fit. I'll dremel out more of the metal on the bottom in order to accommodate the controller module. I'm not sure if it's completely necessary, seeing as there's a huge gap in the Faraday Cage that is the PC case in the form of the plexi window.

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I found an old 80mm fan that was still working without crunchy bearing(s), and that will be the exhaust. I'm fairly certain this will be enough airflow, and if not then there's definitely other areas where I can mount fans.

More photos up when there's more progress. Right now the biggest challenge is mounting the chassis, and figuring out whether or not I care enough about aesthetics in order to have the Xbox buttons and RoL on the front panel.
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#11 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 05 February 2016 - 02:21 PM

Recently acquired another XB360 slim, this time it was working perfectly. I tore into it just to make sure, and see if it was any different than the last one I got. This one was a glossy model, the previous one was the matte.

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Cracking open this slim console I realized that it was a 250GB system with no hdd...which means I needed to go find one.

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A glance on the exterior

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Since I already documented the disassembly process, there's not much this time around

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This heatsink is pretty beat up looking, strange

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I almost forgot to remove the DVD drive support

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I removed the heatsink and after cleaning it off, I remembered that it looked different than the previous one...the copper slug in the center is larger.

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Here's the C/GPU again

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Put on some Noctua NT-H1 paste

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heatsink reattached

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Boots back up nicely.

I've been using this one for awhile now, and it's doing fine. Now if I can just find the time to finish the PC case 360phat...
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#12 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 01:51 PM

I got in a water pump for various experiments back in February, but only now am I thinking of using it for an xb360.

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Here it is, a Syscooling SC-300T. The only strange thing is that there are seemingly three types of SC-300Ts, one with brass fittings, one with standoffs on the bottom, and mine that has neither. I'm not that concerned, particularly since I don't need an extreme flow rate. In fact, a Youtube user TheKayakingkid tested an older model SC-30A with the same 300L/H flow rate and found that it only achieved around 190L/H.

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I ran it for a really short time to check that the motor was still working, and I noticed that there was a blue LED in the bottom of the pump. I suppose this will work to illuminate the liquid slightly, but it will mostly pass through the water I'm using.

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Got some 3/8"ID tubing to use with it, and some hose clamps just in case.

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For now, I just slipped on a short loop to make sure the pump is working properly. The fit is snug, but after an hour I noticed that there was some minor leakage around the fittings. A hose clamp will be needed when using 3/8"ID tubing.

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The water level is obviously different due to the pump pressure, but stays fairly consistent.

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After running it for a few hours results in the condensation appearing in the reservoir, but the pump is still functioning nicely.

I've left it outside for several months, sometimes running for days at a time and there are no leaks or faults whatsoever. I have renewed faith in this level of budget watercooling equipment, and will proceed with the project.

I originally intended to use the radiator from my old H60 that now has the slightly deformed H80 pump that I repaired, but I was unaware of what was available on ebay. I have an 80mm radiator (to fit the old case I'm planning on using) and some small waterblocks for use on the xb360 cpu and gpu. Updates as they happen, they are currently en route from China.

edit: I forgot I uploaded a short video clip to Youtube when I tested it out for the first time.

https://www.youtube....h?v=b-sYBbhFPxg
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#13 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 07:02 PM

The waterblocks and radiator came in!

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Here they are straight out of the packaging, two supposedly identical models

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However, flipping them over reveals that they're not that identical

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One has a brushed or machined surface, while the other one looks like it has waterspots on it

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Also some flatness issues, but that I knew beforehand

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The 80mm radiator next to the waterblocks.

Next step is making a loop and leaktesting the components. This project is starting to come together.

Bonus: IG photo of all my xb360s set up and running:
https://www.instagra...n-by=aotsukisho
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#14 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 01 July 2016 - 04:31 PM

Whoops, forgot to put these up. Been leaktesting the circuit for a couple of weeks and it all looks pretty good actually.

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Sliding the first tubing onto the waterblocks.

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Placement on the motherboard

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Full loop looks like this. I had to use the larger diameter tubing on the ones that go to the pump, since I didn't want to risk cracking off one of the plastic barbs.

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Seeing how it looks when it's put back on the motherboard.

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dummy radiator placement for now

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Filled it up with water, looking good so far.

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Running the pump overnight to test, and there's nothing there the next morning.

Haven't had the time to hook it up to a system to test yet, but hopefully soon there will be updates.
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#15 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 04 August 2016 - 02:06 PM

Made some progress on fitting the xb360 internals into an ATX case, this time a different one. It was given to me because it was being unused, and it became quickly apparent why...someone had dropped it, and there was some damage that resulted in cosmetic and fitment issues.

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There's a large dent and warping around the top left corner of the faceplate, this is where the case took majority of the damage.

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Its guts are definitely still okay however, and I will be working on getting the motherboard into it. This is an older case with only three 80mm fan mounting positions; one intake in front of the hard drive cage, one exhaust up top and another exhaust out the back.

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The xb360 mobo lines up relatively well with the ATX expansion and I/O ports. I will be modifying the case slightly in order to allow me to plug stuff in externally. Note that the final position of the mobo is actually one slot down from where this photo was taken, to be able to access the sync button from through a PCI slot hole.

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Here's the front panel of the case, it's a bit rusty like everything else from being stored outside. There's some audio and USB headers on the bottom, which is why there's a fustercluck of wires down there but along with the I/O there's four LEDs that illuminate pillars on the faceplate. Those take 12v through molex connectors from the power supply.

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A bit hard to see, but I marked the drill points for new standoffs.

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So this happened. Guess I don't know my own strength

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Lining it up nicely

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Here's the side panel, it is heavily rusted and I will probably be repainting it when the project is completed

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Pulling off the stock acrylic window. It's slightly blue-tinted which would be nice since I'm planning on having a blue LED color scheme, but there's a hole for mounting an 80mm fan in the center which I will not be using and will want to cover up.

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xb360 DVD drive requires modification in order to be able to fit inside a 5.25" bay. The standoff pegs that is used to connect it to the xb360 chassis are too wide, so I will have to cut them

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Cut off the metal that exceeds the 5.25" width

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I also had to file down a support on the leg closest to the foreground

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Cut and bent for the wireless board to fit through. I didn't want that inside the case due to the case acting as a Faraday shield and it will definitely negatively impact the performance.

I had a couple nights free and made some tremendous progress on this project, I will post up the next round of photos as soon as I can.
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#16 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 05:11 PM

Here's more progress...

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This is just for reference...the stock xb360 fans are rated for 0.4A at 12v, which is useful should I want to plug in aftermarket fans to the stock headers.

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I soldered together the green wire to a ground, which allows the ATX power supply to turn on and off via the rear mains switch rather than a motherboard signal. Testing with a fan

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Now it's time to open up the power supply

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I've had this foreign cable for awhile now, time to use it in something useful

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The wire inside is quite thin, we'll see if it gets hot with usage. Soldered to the 120vac neutral and hot post-switch so the one switch can turn on and off both things

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Tested to pass power to an xb360 power brick

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I'm pretty sure this will be the final mounting solution for the DVD drive since I want to keep it reversible without having to drill too many holes...I'll just hotglue the pegs to the broken standard optical drive underneath or something.

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Pegs on the rear barely fit on, but it's there

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Using some M3x12 (?) screws to fix one 80mm fan to one side of the radiator

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Test setup with some screws I had bought for my fighting stick project that I never used since it went into, coincidentally, an xb360 Xenon chassis.

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Using a scrap bracket I had laying around to test retention

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Drawing out a template to cut out some plexi with

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Ready to cut. I think this would've been a lot easier with metal, but I figured that a plexi piece will be easy to cut for now, and I can simply use it as a final template later.

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Had to use a drill bit to get out some areas due to the difficult double concave cut up top

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Everything in place

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Final shot of the night showing the layout I had in mind from the start

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Bonus shot of the rear, where you can see the wireless board, disc eject (top), sync (bottom), and the 2 front USB headers poking through.

This project could have been done much cleaner and in a smaller case, if I do something like this again I will probably have the board flipped the other way and use one of those USB extender brackets put in to access the front 2. This way, the power brick can be kept externally, and the av cable can be changed easily.

One or two more sessions til it's functional! I'm kind of waiting for some blue led fans coming in from China, but I can do testing on it before everything's finalized and made pretty.

Still gotta extend the DVD drive power cable, and figure out how to mount a hard drive. I'm thinking of extending that as well and having it sit in the hard drive bays.
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