Digital.Complex: My MRCG build-up - Digital.Complex

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My MRCG build-up

#1 User is offline   hrddrvr 

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 06:04 AM

This will be a slow process as Ill be focusing on the cars Ill be running in PA at the PNWC eastern regional qualifier. After that, I plan on dedicating some time to this beauty, so I can have it up a running shortly there after. I am far enough along that Ill go ahead and share :D

I was one of the lucky ones who got one of the preproduction kits, but set up and the build should be just the same as the production chassis.


I got color0 to go ahead and cut me a couple of battery trays. This way I can still take advantage of the quick change set up and my regular rechargables. I also got him to set me up with an RM rear pod. At the time I ordered, I was still a heavy RM fan. Ive finally got MM working for me (in 94mm config), so Ill likely try it out with this chassis as well. Since it came assembled in the standard MM form, thats what Ill build up and test first.

Here is the bundle of parts I recieved.

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A couple chassis only shots.

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I tried to take some close-ups to show off the quality (Im totally impressed with it by the way), so here are some random shots from various angles.

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The battery tray. If these function as good as they look, Ill be in business. Thanks again for milling/assmebling these for me B. They will make this investment worth every penny!

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#2 User is offline   color0 

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 07:41 AM

Footnote to hrddrvr's post: the fiberglass preproduction kits actually have one significant difference compared to the production graphite kits, in the motor mounting system. The production kits have a new lighter, one-piece motor mount that requires drilled motor cans, whereas hrddrvr's car here has an older, two-piece mount that doesn't require drilled motor cans.

But please enjoy the buildup anyways. :)
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#3 User is offline   hrddrvr 

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 07:45 AM

The first thing I did was inspect the chassis heavily. Most of the cuts seemd pretty well perfect, but there was a little spot here or there to clean up around the counter sunk holes on the bottom of the chassis. Fiberglass is a fiberous material after all, so this was expected.

The only things I could see that needed immediate attention are the bearing holders for the diff, the DDS plates and top plate of the motor pod (that slides between the plates).

An exacto took care of the bearing holders very easily. I broke out the 1500 to sand down the plates. I didnt get any progress pics of sanding, but after a few moments I could clearly see that the plates are no where near perfectly flat. The top plate that they surround was much closer, but the fiberglass raised ever so slightly around the edge (probably not a big deal) and around the center hole. I sanded them smooth as well to get the best possible disc action I can.

Here are couple shots of my work :D

Sanded plates.

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And the sanded top plate. This pictuire didtn come out well, but you can see how the G10 isnt glossy around the DDs area. Thats the only area I sanded.

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#4 User is offline   hrddrvr 

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 07:46 AM

After this, the chassis was ready for the build up to really comense.

I cleaned up and loaded an oil damper. I also rebuilt the K diff I had on my MR015. I got it used, have been running it for almost a year, and suprisingly, it still showed near 0 wear. It was a little grimey in there, so Im glad I got it cleaned up if nothing else.

I got them both, along with some porsche 935 wheels, mounted to the chassis. I also bolted in the servo (sm22) just to see how it fit.

Here are the goods.

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Posted ImageHere are the goods.

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#5 User is offline   eztuner12 

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 05:12 PM

Brian,
I see you find an AAA battery clip that fits, great!!!!
Would this batty clip included, or you will provide the brand and place to buy it?
Thx
Cheers
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#6 User is offline   color0 

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 05:23 PM

I made them as a proof of concept; it takes me a lot of time and blood per tray. :shock: I'm still looking for a pre-made tray that has the right dimensions because this one isn't quite perfect yet and it's too time-consuming.
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#7 User is offline   eztuner12 

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Posted 12 September 2008 - 01:54 PM

Hi Brian
I Have been seeking for the additional parts to be able to assemble the chassis, as I mentioned before Iam out of the US and to reduce the S&H cost plus the custom tax, I have to buy as much as possible at once to be shipped all together, or no more than 2 shipments. Up to now I have to buy from 3 different shops not including the batty charger for batty pack. Since tinyrc only has the MRCG chassis, the 2-degree Alloy knuckles arms and wheels in stock I cold not place my order and missed the $20 and $10 coupon offered. I guess I will have to make my order when I am back in the US.
Did you pre-order many chassis? Are the CNC parts be in with the chassis? When are you expecting to have them in?
Thx
Cheers
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#8 User is offline   color0 

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Posted 12 September 2008 - 08:48 PM

I believe David is trying to get all the necessary accessories I asked for in stock, so before long you will be able to make all your purchases from the TinyRC shop alone. :) I couldn't get him to stock some of the best things (Reflex Avid bearings, for example) but the rest, like kingpins, springs, tires, etc. he should be working on.

As for the CNC parts, the preorder is going slower than planned so I am expecting mid-October arrival. Plenty of time for you to get back in the US. ;)
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#9 User is offline   eztuner12 

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Posted 13 September 2008 - 09:58 AM

Thx so much Brian.
That would be just perfect, to be able to buy evry thing from TINYRC. :lol:
btw any battery charger you would recomend? Or have you found a nice tray that will fit to the MRCG?
Again thx for the effort with David. ;-)
Cheers
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#10 User is offline   color0 

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Posted 13 September 2008 - 01:11 PM

I've heard nice things about the Duratrax ICE, and of course you could also use uber-high-end chargers like the LRP ones. I just use a simple Duratrax Piranha, it gets the job done. Haven't found a tray yet though, I think the only to get a readily-available tray into the chassis is to redesign the entire battery bay. ;)

David and I are a bit short in the time department but we are trying our best to make the MRCG more sell-able, hence all this effort on getting a build-your-own feature into the shop listing. If/when you use it I'm sure you'll love it. :)
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#11 User is offline   eztuner12 

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Posted 14 September 2008 - 06:28 PM

Hi Brian,
Worship the idea of the "build-your-own" concept; it would be just great, as soon all parts are available in stock :D
About the batty tray visit here http://www.electroni...it.A/id.2512/.f This one looks very compact. Sorry I insist so much on the batty tray, but it would be great to use my Maha C-9000 or my La Crosse BC-900 with both my MA-010 and the MRCG
Cheers man ;-)
BTW, Thx for the charger recomendations I will look into them.
Check this tray too;
http://bestgroup.manufacturer.globalsou ... roduct.htm
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#12 User is offline   color0 

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Posted 14 September 2008 - 11:11 PM

About those trays, I'd want one too for the convenience. Unfortunately I've previously checked out both the ones you posted, and they still aren't compact enough to work in the car. :( Really, the only solution at this time is to buy four single AAA holders, cut them up, glue together and solder into a pack-like object. :lol:
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#13 User is offline   hrddrvr 

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 10:10 AM

Yep, I must be the slowest builder in the history of GSR...well maybe next to cowbay, lol.

I finally got around to working on this car a lot. I tried out a few different AM boards, and finally dropped the cash on an ASF board. This thing sticks like glue. I threw random springs on it when I was bulding it up (AWD springs on DDS and in the front), and it handles great just like it is, lol. Ive still got a little steering woes. Ive been trying things and testing things, and still cant quite put my gfinger on it. My next little bit of RC money (it doesnt come in quantity these days) will be set aside for a new servo, just in case. I know I can get something better (JR sm22), its just that I cant get anything better locally.

Anyway, here are the fun stuffs.

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#14 User is offline   Donziikid 

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 10:15 AM

Love the body, HRD! :D
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#15 User is offline   hrddrvr 

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 10:26 AM

Donziikid said:

Love the body, HRD! :D


Thanks! I cnt take credit for this one though. This was a hand-me-down from Grant "yasuji". He is one of the top pan car drivers, so I imagine this shell has taken quite a few victories. Hopefully itll net a few more!
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#16 User is offline   color0 

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 12:42 PM

Your rear suspension looks like it's bent back... try lowering the end of the shock that's mounted to the pod, that'll reduce preload a bit. Then use the diff height spacers to raise the pod 0.5mm and see what you think. I wonder if that's why you're getting wandering issues on the straight, you've basically got the car running anti-squat rear suspension. :)
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#17 User is offline   hrddrvr 

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 04:10 AM

Ill try reducing the preload a bit more. I may have to try a softer center spring as well. What were you running on yours?

I had more preload on there, and the rear was jacked up a bit. Toning it down helped, but hasnt eliminated the problem. The pics make it look like more jacked up than it is, and with the body on, it sits pretty damn level.
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#18 User is offline   mk2kompressor 

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 12:10 PM

yellow atm rcp mr02 spring in the middle is the one,i may add limiters to the shaft on the inside of my shock to prevent having too much droop
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#19 User is offline   hrddrvr 

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 04:13 AM

Ill ssee if Ive got one of those in my box Matt. Right now Im using a yellow one out of one of those RPMz WalMart cars. Its doing pretty well. Its the best Ivefound from all the things I pulled out.


Brian, I got the car doing a lot better. I squatted the rear a bit more, and its a lot more balanced. The servo is definitly the steerng problem. Coming out of a rihgt turn, it doesnt get all the way back to center. After getting up to speed the momentum helps it straighten out. Im off to NekoCon, but Ill definitly be getting a futaba to try and solve this issue when I get back.
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#20 __

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 09:02 AM

hai there mini's racer,I'm from malaysia currently race mr03,compared this two cars,which one is better,love the mr03 very2 much,thx :cool:

#21 User is offline   color0 

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 07:11 PM

Depends on the track. :) The MR-03 has such a fantastic steering servo that you can place the car exactly where you want it. However, our MRCG and MRCG1.1 have a lighter chassis and better rear suspension, and carry much more corner speed once the car is turned. So on long flowing tracks without too many quick transitions, the MRCG's will dominate, while MR-03's will probably be better on tighter tracks. We're working on a way to put the MR-03 servo into the MRCG's front end, which if successful, will render any other Mini-Z noncompetitive. ;)
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Posted 09 February 2010 - 04:34 AM

sound very good,what can I understand here is the MRCG can handle high speed track much better then the miniZ :shock: nice I love fast and high speed track,thx sir..... ;-)

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