Digital.Complex: [nerf] Longshot CS-6/CS-12 (N-Strike/Zombie Strike) - Digital.Complex

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[nerf] Longshot CS-6/CS-12 (N-Strike/Zombie Strike)

#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 13 March 2014 - 12:50 PM

I picked up a Longshot a few months ago off of ebay for a nice price of $35 (it also came with other assorted pistol blasters), but I didn't really get around to modifying it until now. The performance of the blaster sucked, if I'm honest, but after tearing into it I understood why.

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Here's the blaster before I took it apart, the barrel attachment is sitting offscreen somewhere

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The bolt action handles are mounted to a rod 5mm thick, in case I want to (probably will) pick up replacements

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After pulling out the handles and disassembling the butt stock

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This was the first secondhand blaster I've bought, and unfortunately with previous owners comes the possibility of neglect. This is the screw pattern for the blaster, and all of them had rusty heads.

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there are two screws a little fatter than the rest, these go here right behind the forward grip

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Opaque jam access door, with the bump stop

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Priming indicator, I'm pretty sure the spring is supposed to rest on that platform though

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barrel OD is approximately 20mm

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barrel length is approximately 140mm

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Okay, now into the guts of the blaster.

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This is the rear of the plunger. This is a direct plunger design, but it's a little unconventional where the spring rests completely inside of the cylinder, unlike the newer Elite blasters where the spring rests on the rear of the shell

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pulling out the bolt sled

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Unbolted the rear and pulled the plunger out. The piston screw was rusty too, what the hell.

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Completely disassembling the bolt sled

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Because I had the Massacre kit installed in my Longstrike, I had the internals free to play with. As it turns out, the Longstrike's spring nests nearly perfectly inside of the Longshot.

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Is this a hole in the plunger assembly..? I must figure out what to do with this

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I noticed that my Longshot had problems firing Elites, so I looked up a solution for it. Apparently it's because the stock internals don't let the dart load far back enough, so the dart tooth bites into the head of the dart when the breech is closed. Here's the stock internals with the dart post, sorry it's hard to see.

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A minute or two on the drill press and it's gone

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Elites load all the way back, and the breech can be closed without pinching the dart head.

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I noticed that a lot of blasters have similar internals, here's a shot of (top to bottom) the Longshot, the Retaliator, and the Longstrike internals. The Longshot really does have a monster of a piston.

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If I wanted to increase the spring tension in the blaster, I need to reinforce the bolt sled in order to prevent cracking. The design has the bolt pulled back but the force needs to be translated to the plunger through that pin connection up top. I will make metal brackets so that it will bleed the strain through a much tougher material.

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Testing the fitment of my paper cutout

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Fits on both sides. I will have to grind down the piece that fits on the left side, where as you can see in this photo it doesn't go all the way down like on the other side.

There's much to do for this project, and hopefully I can find a spring that's actually suitable for this instead of having a whole bunch of them in there. Updates will happen as they come!
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 06:59 PM

Short progress update

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Overlaying my cutout on a scrap piece of sheet metal

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Penciled in the outlines, ready to cut

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I don't have anything fancy like a laser cutter so I used tin snips which is why they're a little bit curly

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Hammered them down a bit so they're somewhat flat. Next step is epoxying these to the bolt sled
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 11:50 AM

Did some measurement photos for reference

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I bought a pipe cutter to go around taking out the air restrictor in the Longshot's breech.

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It's a relatively small one, but it's fine for Nerf purposes

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Crank down the blade and rotate it around the pipe

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Voila

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scraped out the black piece from the AR

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Looking at the piston side of the breech

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Removed the AR backplate and put on a foam pad to cushion the plunger

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Doing this because I can. Longshot, Longstrike and Retaliator springs, all stock.

I then proceeded to fuck up the process of gluing the breech back together, so now it looks like I will have to make a new one out of pipe. I will probably do a sealed breech design to take advantage of my frankly ridiculous spring setup, hopefully it will turn out better than my failed repair.

The original reason why I did the pipecutter method was because I didn't like breaking off the tabs on the AR backplate since I wanted to use it as a plunger stop. The really shitty thing is that the AR backplate is a piece of plastic lightly CA glued into the breech...I could've just popped that out and everything would've fallen out, which is what I ended up doing in the end anyway. Sigh
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#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 02:34 PM

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I got in another Longshot so I can actually have a working blaster.

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First step is always to pop out the priming handle

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Screw pattern. They are all identical except for the two long ones by the front barrel, and the two short ones on the counterweight looking thing underneath. Thankfully this blaster wasn't abused, so the screw heads were all intact and not rusty.

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Top shell taken off. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the breech still had grease on it.

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Alignment of the priming indicator

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Back of the priming indicator

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Default setup of the trigger area. Both of the black pieces are locks that need to be removed.

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Dart tooth assembly

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All the pieces taken out

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Piston size comparison. Longshot with stock plunger, modified plunger from earlier (Longshot, Longstrike and Retaliator spring), and the Centurion mega huge piston.

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I realized that the O-ring space has enough for two of them, so I borrowed the other Longshot's O-ring

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Perfect fit.

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Everything assembled onto one plunger, with teflon tape to improve the seal

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In it goes

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Reassembled piston on the bolt sled

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Three springs on the inside so I figured that I should put three on the catch as well. Stock one is overlaid with another spring, and the unused nub got a spring as well. No misfires yet knock on wood.

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Catch with springs installed

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The top tactical rail tooth is directional, I put it this way so the scope can be installed correctly (it slides from the rear). I'm pretty sure this is the way it was stock, but I forgot to check.

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Another common modification is to put in PVC so the buttstock doesn't collapse since the locking mechanism is quite weak. 3" cut was what I measured

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Sunk in with 2 stocks of hotglue

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Reassembled the main body

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Priming handle reinstalled

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I also forgot to mention I modified the jam door cover to be able to open whenever instead of just when the breech is open

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Nostalgia for some. The N-Strike elite
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#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 05:50 PM

One of my friends got me the Zombie Strike Longshot for my birthday, and I got around to modifying it recently. I wanted to see if it's the same inside as the older model Longshots, and whether or not the included Zombie darts are Streamlines or if the breech has been updated to fire Elites reliably.

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Here's the comparison with the other Longshots that I own. The first thing I noticed about the ZS Longshot was that it kept the holes for the legs in the front, and as such I was hoping that they could be used to put in my extra set of legs from the original model.

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Looking at the Longshots again with the all of their accessories attached

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First things first, remove the buttstock the same way as you would the old model

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Be careful removing the screws, they are probably the same spec as the old one and strip relatively easily.

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Internals visually look the same as the old model

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Lock system is the same

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The plastic for the trigger catch seems a bit stronger which is good

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Closeup on the magazine and trigger locks

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That plastic thing up top now matches the barrel extension's (it's not some strange yellow), although there isn't a new barrel extension for the ZS line? Either way, I'm swapping them and using the yellow one in one of my old blue ones

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Remove the locks (and the trigger catch)

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Disassembly of the piston

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The new spring is coated black, and slightly longer than the old one. The spring constant seems to be about the same

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Wrapped the plunger head with teflon tape in order to improve the seal

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Doubled up the plunger with old springs, one old Longshot and one out of my Retaliator

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Sealing the piston back up

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Reassembling the bolt sled

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Now onto the legs. These are the pieces off of an old Longshot.

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First off, this one goes into the shell over here. Thankfully there's screwholes still molded in

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Screw the bushing in like so

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Feed the leg through the bushing, and put that cap on and screw it together. Note that there is a D cut in the leg, make sure to match up the cut with the cap

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Using a now-unused lock spring to double up on the trigger catch

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Reassembled with an old barrel extension attached.

To answer my above questions, they must have updated the breech in order to accept Elite darts since it fires both the included Zombie darts and my standard Elites I had laying around reliably. More reliably than my Elite Alpha Trooper, actually. I was able to use this blaster in the Nerf event we had this past weekend, and it performed great. This combination of springs allowed for easy priming and decent range. I will probably keep this one as it is, and when Orange Mod Works finally rereleases their Longshot Immortal kits I will put those in the old ones. Great rerelease of a great blaster! Good job Nerf!
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#6 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 12:27 PM

Updates four years later, I got a shotgun conversion kit made by Worker Mod for the Longshot.

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Unfortunately I have to remove the front legs that I got for it. Also going into the blaster is the OMW Unleashed Solid kit to help with durability.

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First step was to dremel off parts of the blaster in order to accommodate the rail the pump slides on.

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Here's an actual diagram on how far to actually dremel off, as the Worker instructions don't mention it.

Red arrows point across the surfaces that you need to dremel off and make smooth as they will have the 3d printed rail butt up against.

Yellow arrows point to the corners that need to be cut at a clean 90 degree angle, the rail has a sharp corner that needs to fit smoothly against the blaster here.

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After fixing the cuts the rail is on. It's somewhat difficult due to there being sticky pads on three different facing surfaces but with a little patience it can be done.

Do not apply heavy pressure until the entire rail is stuck on as it will be extremely difficult to reposition.

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Bolt sled replacement, I'm not completely certain what those wheels on the stock sled do so I left it out of the new one. It seems to be working fine.

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The only complaint with the OMW kit was that the plunger head screw was slightly too long or the hole was tapped slightly too shallow. Either way, a HD cutoff wheel dealt with it.

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Assembling the OMW plunger and spring

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Putting in the OMW metal trigger, not sure of any performance benefit but it does provide a subtle external sign of modifications

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The metal is a bit sticky on the plastic due to the high amount of surface area on the rear, so some lithium grease solved that problem.

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Shell put back together

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Pump and rails attached. I like how the kit keeps a slim version of the bolt handles for old fashioned Longshot action.

A pleasant surprise is that the noise of the 3d printed surface of the action goes way down once the kit is fully installed. I'm not sure if this is due to there being loading due to the spring or the fact that it's stuck to a much heavier and larger plastic shell that dampens the vibration. Another pleasant surprise is that the holes in the metal bars from the bolt to the pump are tapped for possible accessory attachments.

I would recommend that threadlock be used on the bolt handles as they may loosen themselves through usage.

All in all, an understated kit that I liked a lot more than I thought I would. I believe there's a no-cut version that does away with the cutting of the shell but the pump looks a little different to accommodate. I am considering ordering another one for another LS since I do have another OMW kit lying around...
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