Digital.Complex: Small mods/maintenance - Digital.Complex

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#1 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 10:28 AM

This thread will be for the relatively minor mods or maintenance done to the car. We start off with resoldering the ECU plugs, a known weak spot that results in crappy idling, poor gas mileage, etc. Even though our car was working relatively well despite the 140k miles, I decided to resolder the pins anyway.

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ECU out of the car

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the pcbs taken out of the plastic enclosure.

All of the pins on the main board had a plastic socket, so you didn't have to worry about them shifting when the solder melted. The ones on the auxilary board didn't have a placeholder, but I didn't feel them shifting when they were reflowed.

The good ol' days of leaded solder...mmm...
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#2 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 09:45 AM

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took off all of the extremely old and purple tint, so now we can actually see out the hatch window.
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#3 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 05:04 PM

Malcolm worked on cleaning the undertray.

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Removing the undertray for cleaning

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Taken out. It's all full of oily muck.

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using engine degreaser for the job

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after several passes and much used up newspaper

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found a ladybug on the hose lol


I saw that there was an unnecessary box on the intake tube. It helped the tube mount to the radiator, but it also causes disruptions to smooth airflow.

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The stock intake. We need to remove the chamber on it for better airflow.

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There's a hole leading from the main intake tube to the chamber, which quiets the incoming air.

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bottom view

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After about half an hour with a dremel and hacksaw

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super simple (aka poor man's) Gorilla Tape solution to cover up the hole

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left a strip inside so it doesn't stick to whatever shit goes past

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Three wraps later

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installed back in the car

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side view. Looks very inconspicuous, I think.


I also decided to resolder the 'idiot lights' module, as we had sporadic clock operation.

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the unit removed from the car

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fortunately the plug didn't blow up like the headlights one

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it did have these dried up and cracking rubber mounts for the clock pcb

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three screws to disassemble the unit

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the view from inside.

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one of the dried out rubber spacers

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and on the top. this one actually disintegrated when I touched it.

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exposing the harness terminal

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yep, cracked solder joints.

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desoldered

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cleaning out all of the 20 year old solder

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had to scrape the pins on some of the terminals, they had carbonized

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top view on the pcb

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very important, screw the terminal back in before soldering. Otherwise you put unnecessary stress on the solder joints.

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fresh leaded solder. Fuck you, RoHS.


We also removed the radio antenna from the rear, and changed the trunk light to LEDs. We filled up the hole in the spoiler with Gorilla Tape, and a lot of hot glue. Hey, it may be ghetto, but it's waterproof.

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4x 8mm, running at ~80% brightness

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Malcolm putting the undertray back on for now. Can see the lack of rear antenna.

Busy day! But it was definitely an adventure. What do do next?
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#4 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 10:21 AM

I didn't take photos of me redoing the grounds on the car, but I cleaned, sanded and reattached major harness grounds on the front and the back of the car, ones that made the most difference was the ECU ground on the engine, and the alternator output (our battery is being charged again!). I recently regrounded the ignition coils, and whether or not it made a difference performance-wise is irrelevant because it was corroding and was generally ugly.

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one set of coils mounted to the front of the engine bay, this one was very straightforward. Remove the coil module, sand everything down and retighten. This one was different, as it didn't mount directly to the frame at the top.

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this was what the coil pack's upper bracket mounted to.

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other side

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and then there was this other thing mounted to it too. it also received the sandpaper treatment.

It being 2am when I did this, I forgot to take pictures of the important stuff...but the grounds have been refreshed, and that's good for the car.
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#5 User is offline   aotsukisho 

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Posted 20 April 2012 - 04:28 PM

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the hatch was leaking visibly from this hole, there was a plastic plug in it but it didn't stop the trunk from getting soaked

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the weatherstripping up top was cracking and falling apart, particularly in the center above the hole

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pulling it up to maximize coverage

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fill it up

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got a clamp on it to help seal the weatherstripping edges as well

the RTV sealant dried very quickly since it was raining all day yesterday. Surface was dry in an hour. After doing this, I decided to remove the power steering belt. Our pump has been out of service since we bought the car, and all that pulley is doing is causing unnecessary drag on the engine.

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loosening the tensioner pulley. As it turns out, the terrible screeching noise was not from a bad pulley bearing like I thought but actually from inside the power steering pump. :S

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belt is off

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hmmm...perhaps a belt change is in order

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shot of the engine bay with the belt removed. I'm leaving the pump and tensioner in even though the pump is destroyed.

We took out the cruise control from the instrument panel, but we didn't remove the engine bay component at the time. I pulled it out last night as well.

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the left exiting hose on this T was vacuum line used for the cruise control actuator.

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badly lit photo with the cruise control vacuum line pulled off. The other two lines went up to a green and white one-way valve, and down to the engine block (removed in this photo).

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I didn't want any leaks so I instead used the old cruise control line and hooked up the block nipple to the one way valve. The T and two short lines are now out of the car.

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spot where the cruise control actuator used to sit.

I intended to do the throttle body coolant bypass, but I had difficulty removing the throttle body. I'll attempt again later. I think 12 hours in a day is enough working on a car. :P
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